Is spreadable coffee the new marmite? Photo / 123RF
Is spreadable coffee the new marmite? Photo / 123RF
Opinion by Jonathan Wells
Jonathan Wells writes about lifestyle for the Telegraph.
THREE KEY FACTS
No Normal Coffee is a paste invented by Swiss hikers Alexander Haberlin and Philippe Greinacher.
The brand has already won an innovation award at German trade fair ISPO (Internationale Fachmesse fur Sportartikel und Sportmode) less than a year after its official launch.
It may not look wholly appetising, but this dark paste could be the future of coffee. Invented by a pair of Swiss hikers, No Normal Coffee is a blend of ground coffee, coffee extract, sugar and water, with a touch of naturally fermented xanthan gum to give it a thick, glossy appearance.
But here, on a slice of sourdough toast in front of me, it looks less like coffee and more like Marmite. Wait, toast? That’s right. Fed up with carrying bulky coffee-making equipment or resorting to inadequate instant coffee when trekking, Alexander Haberlin and Philippe Greinacher cooked up their idea for a “coffee paste” while scaling Mont Fort in 2023. Soon after, they knocked together a prototype in their kitchen – something that could be dissolved in boiling water, but also used as a spread.
“During the initial prototype review, we experimented with various ways to dissolve it,” says Haberlin. “Hot water, cold water, milk. Then, in a spontaneous moment, Philippe spread some paste on an energy bar and took a bite. His eyes lit up – it was incredible. We hadn’t even considered that use: not only the first coffee paste, but also the first spreadable coffee.”
On toast, it’s strong. There are bitter dark chocolate notes, and the Marmite comparisons stretch farther than looks – it tastes almost yeasty, like a dark, thick soy sauce. That’s not to say it’s unpleasant, and there’s no grit in the smooth spread, which makes for good, even coverage on every slice. However, only the thinnest coating is required. Any more, and both your tastebuds and teeth would probably suffer over time.
“We tested about 12 recipe variations, experimenting with different coffee concentrations, roast levels, and combinations of sugar, water and natural emulsifiers,” Haberlin says of the development process. “But after approximately four months, we had our first product.”
Even on toast, the quality of the coffee is clear: 100% fair-trade Colombian arabica. The sugar is of a similarly lofty provenance: organic Swiss beet sugar grown near the production facility. And this sweet touch is perhaps the product’s masterstroke, tempering as it does what would otherwise be overbearing bitterness.
It works in the mug, too. A level teaspoon of paste does the trick, and it dissolves faster than even the finest instant coffee. The taste is that of cafetiere coffee, and the 47mg of caffeine in every cup means it sits somewhere between freeze-dried instant and espresso-based brews. At £14 ($30.44) a tube (and 20 cups per tube), it works out at 70p ($1.50) per cup, which might strike some as pricey for at-home use.
Spreadable coffee works in the mug, too. Photo / 123RF
But, originally at least, the paste was created for the great outdoors. And, in that market, it has found a foothold. In less than a year since its official launch, the brand has already won an innovation award at German trade fair ISPO (Internationale Fachmesse fur Sportartikel und Sportmode), and shipped orders to Iceland, New Zealand and South America. Tubes have made it to Antarctica, and up Everest.
But, as my breakfast attests, you don’t have to be an adventurer to try it. And, among the off-label uses Haberlin has heard so far, No Normal Coffee has been swirled into workout shakes and espresso martinis, used to make tiramisu, or even as a marinade on meat. The founders themselves recommend spreading it on bananas or chocolate.
So, while sceptics will undoubtedly stick with their moka pots and Nespresso machines – and I won’t be permanently swapping out my morning marmalade any time soon – there’s certainly something to be said for this handy paste. It’s a great option for hikers, a more authentic instant alternative for home use and, should you know any coffee obsessives, the perfect way for them to squeeze a little more of the stuff into their everyday lives.
Six more foods in a tube
“In Switzerland, aluminium tubes are commonly used for everything from mayonnaise to tomato paste, meat, and even fish spreads,” says Haberlin. “We loved the concept – it’s honest, practical and durable. These tubes are great for protecting their contents, recyclable, and tough enough to withstand outdoor adventures.”
