How to know if you have wine face, cheese face or sugar face – and how to fix it

Familiar faces? Some of the common skin issues that flare up over Christmas.

It’s all too much, isn’t it? The late nights, the mince pies, the tiny, glinting glasses of liqueurs. It will come to an end, of course, but we’re not there yet. “If it was just one or two days, it wouldn’t matter, but I had my first mince pie in October, so there you go,” functional medicine practitioner Rosemary Ferguson says with a laugh.

The problem – if you’re bothered by a puffier face, shadowy eyes and dull skin – is largely inflammation, agree nutritionists and skin experts. “We know that sugar, alcohol and, in some cases, gluten and dairy increase inflammation in the body,” says nutritionist Rhian Stephenson. “The second thing we know is that the health of our gut shows up on our skin.”

If you’re still in doubt, Stephenson helpfully presents the counterfactual of a healthier regime. “Anyone following our nutrition plans, which have no alcohol, added sugar, dairy or gluten, tells me they look tighter, brighter and less puffy very quickly. Everyone comments on their skin; it’s like they’ve had a facelift.”

If the idea of a full reset appeals, January is just around the corner. But for now, here are some interim measures to see you through.

Wine face

Skin looks tired, inflamed and dehydrated

Eczema, rosacea and acne can be exacerbated by excess alcohol.

As a diuretic, alcohol robs skin of water, bounce and glow, says Ferguson. “The ‘one wine, one water’ thing is a nice idea, but one glass of wine removes more than one glass of water from the body, so you can forget your lovely, plump glow.” We also forget that booze is the No 1 sleep disruptor at this time of year, she continues. “Fine when you’re younger, but the rest of us look grey and miserable.” Then there’s that inflammatory load. “Eczema, rosacea and acne can all be exacerbated by excess alcohol,” says Stephenson.

What to try

Natural biodynamic wines are an option, recommends Stephenson. “Wine isn’t just alcohol – the chemicals and sulphates also increase inflammation.” Morning-after electrolytes can also restore hydration balance, while facialist Rhian Truman votes for “a nice walk in the cold crispy air to increase oxygen flow and encourage glow back”.

For tired-looking eyes, she likes a cold Gua Sha tool, to brighten and de-puff by promoting lymphatic flow. And “Call me old fashioned,” says makeup artist Zoë Taylor, “but I keep teaspoons in the freezer, to tighten up the skin and reduce redness.”

Sugar face

Skin looks puffy, saggy and dull

Your skin’s elasticity and glow can take a hit after too much sugar.

“The more carbohydrates we eat, and the more sugar – which is just a simple carbohydrate after all – the more water and sodium we hold on to,” says Rhian Stephenson. “One slice of sourdough bread won’t give you a puffy face, but after three slices of toast, five mince pies and a bowl of pasta, you’re going to retain water.” Stretch out your Quality Street era for long enough and elasticity and glow can also take a hit (it’s called glycation, whereby excess sugar molecules attach to collagen and elastin fibres). “It won’t happen in a week, but it might after six,” says Stephenson.

What to try

A facial plunge in ice and cold water is “so great to instantly de-puff”, promises Stephenson; ditto boosting the lymphatic system with bouncier forms of exercise such as walking, jogging or, yes, rebounding.

Cheese face

Blemishes, flare-ups and dry skin around the eyes

Cheese is thought to be an inflammatory trigger for acne.

Could a post-Christmas Day breakout be due to overindulging in the cheeseboard? The jury’s out on this one, says Ferguson. “Some papers show inflammation caused by dairy; others don’t agree. But having spoken to skin doctors who see it all the time, it can be an inflammatory trigger for acne. Dr Zia Stratos, head of nutrition at London’s Galen Clinic, concurs. “I see a lot of dairy intolerances in my practice and we know intolerances can cause inflammation. The way that inflammation manifests – whether that’s acne, eczema or rosacea – depends on your own tendencies.”

Those who daily work with skin agree the eye area often seems affected. “In my experience, even the slightest intolerance seems to present as dry patches around the eyes,” says Taylor.

What to try

“Balance out recent indulgences with a diversity of colourful vegetables,” says Dr Stratos. “Pre and probiotic supplements can be a nice add-on, but to really change the bacterial population in the gut, feed the good bacteria what they like to eat.” From there, distraction is key, says Taylor. “I try to avoid too much makeup around the eye if there is a flare-up.”