KEY POINTS:
Hemlines may rise during times of economic uncertainty, but this summer there is more fabric involved in swimwear than we've seen for a long time. After years of the string bikini's tyrannical poolside reign, the one-piece swimsuit is finally enjoying its moment back in the sun as a fashionable holiday wardrobe staple.
Evidence of this turnaround on the summer catwalks was conclusive - though you might expect a classic one-piece from Chanel or Marni, when flesh-flashing labels such as DSquared and Julien Macdonald start covering their models' midriffs you know there must be a sea change taking place.
Don't be fooled, however, into thinking this trend is necessarily demure or flattering. Though there are some generously cut retro 1950s styles on offer, 2008's crop of cossies are unashamedly sexy, with racy prints and cutaway styles that make them a more daring choice than the average bikini.
What's more, the swimsuit has an elegance that a bikini can never quite match. As Melissa Odabash, whose swimwear designs can be found in the suitcases of stars such as Kate Moss and Elle Macpherson, puts it, "One-pieces have an allure simply because they are less obvious - covering up a little can be very sexy."
The secret to wearing a one-piece well, according to Odabash, is all about a judicious choice of cut for your body and some savvy accessorising. Once you've consulted our round-up of the season's key trends and how to style them, both of those tasks should be a breeze. All that's left for you to do is add water. The key looks are:
Cutaway
If a cutaway swimsuit instantly makes you think of WAGs in beach mode, rest assured that it has the potential to be the height of chic. Symmetrical cutaway panels create the illusion of a slimmer waist, although if you are going to accentuate a particular area of flesh in this way, it will need to be reasonably toned. Neutral shades save it from looking tarty, but you'll still need to add earthy accessories to ensure it looks more boho than Soho.
Print
Emilio Pucci's iconic swirly prints remain a classic, but Matthew Williamson is making his own mark at the Italian design house with some striking prints in his trademark vivid colours. If brights aren't your thing, kill two trends with one swimsuit and opt for an animal print to nail the safari look (another big story on the runways). Pair with plain accessories to keep things contemporary rather than Costa del Sol.
Asymmetric
Designers channelled Greek goddesses this season with asymmetric necklines on dresses all over the catwalks. Gucci was one of several labels to extend the look to swimwear with a sleek, black version. Great on athletic bodies with defined shoulders, this style can be accessorised according to your taste to look either classically glamorous (think gold jewellery) or futuristic (try a sporty visor). If you are going monochrome with your one-piece, inject some colour with a bright nail varnish.
Fifties
Michael Kors says more covered-up styles are "unexpected and special on a younger woman" and he's absolutely right that more material needn't spell boring. The lither the physique, the more fabric you can get away with, without looking frumpy. The 1950s are the decade providing designers with the greatest inspiration at the moment, so nostalgic styles are plentiful on both catwalk and high-street. Try a sweet polka-dot, gingham or simple block colour worn with Hepburn-worthy soft ballet pumps and a wide-brimmed hat.
Riviera
Unlike the sunshine, Riviera chic is a trend you can rely upon to reappear every summer without fail. Between movie-star glamour and the more wholesome nautical look, Chanel's blue denim and metallic accessories have St Tropez written all over them. For a more relaxed take, opt for trusty Breton stripes and a good old-fashioned woven bag.
- INDEPENDENT
