KEY POINTS:
Hard-bitten cynics would say it's merely a clever marketing technique dreamed up by a bunch of wide boys to create interest and move stock at a higher premium.
I'm talking about wines that are so exclusive, precious and precocious they are made only in exceptional vintages - one where the weather did the right things at the right times resulting in fruit of perfect flavour, harmony and purity. Because vintages are variable, some producers don't release what may be a staple varietal if grapes have been damaged by frost, wind, or heavy rain.
If the merlot didn't get a chance to ripen properly, best not to produce one this year. Grapes not required can be on-sold or, if viable, blended.
Ultimately it's all about protecting the brand. There are a handful of New Zealand winemakers who produce top-end wines (usually reds) but only when the planets are aligned and the weather gods have co-operated. They feel no compulsion to have to deliver these wines every year, consequently they are usually quite outstanding.
In this mix look for Esk Valley's The Terraces. Malbec and merlot dominate with some cabernet franc. They are rich, lush and bold. Recent vintages include 1998, 2000, 2002, and 2004.
Another standout is Church Road's tribute to one of this country's illustrious winemakers, Tom McDonald. McDonald gives a nod, in fact a fair old nudge, to quality Bordeaux-style reds. Merlot and cabernet dominate with a hint of malbec. Refined, complex, savoury, it's possibly New Zealand's best-presented wine.
Finally, yet another Hawkes Bay beauty, Matariki Quintology. The first release was 1997, the latest 2004. It's a blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and small amounts of syrah and malbec.
Complex, concentrated and well worth cellaring. Leave your cynicism at the door.
RECOMMENDED
2004 Matariki Quintology
Hand-harvested grapes from a great vintage. Dark fruit and spice - cedary smokiness with sweet oak.
Price: $45
2006 Esk Valley The Terraces
Released early July - available cellar-door only. Sheer class, stupendous wine, a real favourite.
Price: $125
