Historic potential

Marsden, Bay of Islands Chambourain & Marsden, Bay of Islands Pinot Gris. Photo / Dean Purcell

In 1819 Samuel Marsden introduced winegrowing to New Zealand with the planting of the first vines in Kerikeri. It was another decade or so before a man called Mr Busby — who sounds like a character out of a Dickens novel — made the first wine from those grapes. It's a pity, then, that all these years later Northland has yet to fulfil that early promise and potential.

"Trying to sell wine to those outside Northland is difficult, we don't have an image when people think of fine food and wine," says Marsden Estate producer and president of the Northland Winegrowers, Rod MacIvor.

He's right, but there is a renewed level of commitment and optimism from a level-headed bunch of wine entrepreneurs determined to change that perception.

"We can't have a chip on our shoulder because we're so small," says MacIvor.

"We've got some smart winemakers and some of the prettiest vineyards in the country, and we're working hard on producing better quality fruit."

Northland's production has declined to around 148 tonnes as the market competes with cheaper wines and over production — the north makes up only .05 per cent of New Zealand's production.

There is a slight negative perception about Northland wines and vineyard costs can be high due to climatic conditions. Also the small scale of operations can lead to higher than average costs for the finished product.

But the locals realise their future depends on producing quality wines with distinctive styles.

MacIvor's own big oaky chardonnays have collected a swag of medals over recent years and he's gained considerable success with less popular varietals such as pinotage and chambourain.

Syrah is turning out to be a viable option and Kahu and KariKari estates are turning out distinctive smart wines.

Look north, good wine-buyers, you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Recommended

2007 Marsden Estate Chambourain
Highly regarded French hybrid well able to cope with a humid climate. A rustic style of red — medium-bodied with berry and spice flavours. Worth trying; think barbecues.
Price: $24

2008 Marsden Estate Pinot Gris
Medium-to-dry style with usual pinot gris flavours of pear, apple and spice. Lively and fresh, a great summer wine for alfresco light lunches.
Price: $27