Headquarters, Westhaven

By Jan Corbett for canvas

Thanks to everyone who responded to my recent plea for the names of cafes that make their own hash browns. Happily there are more out there than I realised. But Headquarters in Westhaven received the most nominations, so at my first opportunity I checked it out.

Actually I should have known, because years ago when it was in a previous incarnation, I was introduced to hand-made hash browns loaded with salmon and herbs at this restaurant. At Headquarters that tradition is maintained and extended.

Instead of the salmon version, this time two of us ordered Roly's version — an entire dinner-plate serving of grated potato, mushrooms and bacon, topped with melted cheese ($16.50). There was nothing brown about it.

Another of our party ordered the cowboy breakfast with baked beans, poached eggs, sausage, bacon, tomato and one of the splendid, albeit smaller, hash browns ($18.50) and our fourth member the omelette stuffed with mushrooms, red peppers, onions and herbs, also accompanied by hash brown and bacon ($17).

The meals were all so generous and moreish none of us needed to eat again until dinner time.

Apart from the superior hash browns, HQ's other virtue is its airy ambience and its seriously nautical clientele, thanks to its proximity to Westhaven marina. Certainly the breakfasts are large enough to sustain a sailor on a long
voyage.

For me it has been a too-long neglected brunch spot and I'm happy to have remade its acquaintance.

Hours: seven days from breakfast through to dinner

Service: Excellent

Ambience: Nautical

Parking: They have their own alongside

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.