Hammerheads

By ELEANOR BLACK for canvas

Hammerheads gives an immediate impression of solid competence and comfort. There is the hulking building itself, a Tamaki Drive landmark punctured with arched windows overlooking Ohaku Bay and a sprinkle of cheerful city lights.

And in the kitchen, raised above the dining room to offer a glimpse of the frenetic activity inside, chefs bustle confidently, throwing a little parsley on this plate, a hail of diced tomato on another.

After 14 years feeding some of Auckland's most discerning diners, Hammerheads is an assured operation. But even the most experienced can be caught on the hop. We were warned that the kitchen was feeling the strain of unexpectedly heavy bookings and, sure enough, it took 40 minutes to get our entrees.

My sauteed New Zealand scallops on smoked bacon and mushroom risotto ($21.50) was a great idea which didn't pan out. The risotto was wonderfully rich and warming but the scallops were unpleasantly slippery, as if past their best.

Tim's smoked salmon fishcake ($16) was cooked to perfection but the fish was nearly overwhelmed by parsley. The saffron butter with salmon caviar garnish looked great but was far too salty.

With a bottle of Palliser Estate Martinborough Pinot Gris ($46.50) to tide us over, we didn't find the 35-minute wait for mains too arduous. The chicken with buffalo mozzarella, crushed roasted Jerusalem artichokes and leeks ($27) was the star meal, hearty and delicious. The chicken, cooked on the bone, was tender and well-browned on top while the mound of vegetables below it - stringed with the cheese - was rich without being heavy.

I chose the South Island monkfish ($22) out of curiosity, wondering what this large, flat, bottom-dwelling fish would taste like. It arrived on a skewer, topped with a fine crust of cepe, or porcini, mushroom powder. Thin slices of saffron potato and several plump green-lipped mussels surrounded it. The monkfish held up well against the strong flavours of the accompaniments, but was overshadowed by the salty mushroom mixture which, fine for the first few bites, grew in intensity. The steamed vegetables ($6.50) we ordered on the side offered a welcome fresh flavour after my briny main course.

Filled to the gills, we nonetheless craved something sweet. Tim plumped for a scoop each of Tahitian lime, lemon/lime and apricot sorbet with biscotti ($9.50), which was pleasant but not memorable. I was unable to resist a coffee called Mysterious Woman ($10), served with a shot of Tia Maria and Kahlua. It was delicious, as was the handmade chocolate truffle ($2.50) I ordered to go with it.

Hammerheads' waitstaff are exceptionally polite and friendly, making the best of even the busiest shift. The dining room itself is a warm and inviting space, although stylistically it is starting to look a little dated. It may have been a bad night, but the food simply couldn't compare with the view.

Cost: Two entrees, two main courses, one vegetable side dish, one dessert, one special coffee and a chocolate truffle ($161.50)

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.