Halo

By EWAN McDONALD for viva

Tamaki Drive is, the Auckland guides will tell you, one of the world's most beautiful seaside boulevards. Two things crossed our minds as we coasted home recently: 1. typical of Auckland politicians to want to turn it into a motorway interchange (and who didn't snigger when the council's promotional and developmental arms were dislocated over that?) and 2. the view at the end of the road is a whole lot better, with the arrival of Halo.

Nice change of name: Halo is on the site that used to be Saints, almost at the end of the bay. Guy Malyon, who created one of the city's most popular suburban restaurants at One Tree Grill in Epsom, bought the business midway through last year and has subtly updated what was a rather tired bistro.

It is now a grown-up restaurant, one of the few in this genteel beachside spot: subdued grey walls, brown leather chairs, white tablecloths and sienna lampshades that match the staff's ties against their all-black kit. It also threatens to become something else that is rare in this part of the world: a very good restaurant.

When we phoned to book and suggested we arrive around 7, we were subtly offered a choice of times, a little earlier or a bit later, which may have been to suit the kitchen schedule because the restaurant wasn't full as we were shown to a table.

Here's another oddity. Couples are seated in a long and narrow aisle where one person faces Rangitoto and the partner enjoys a panorama of the bar. The main room and tables at the window are for foursomes. Where, just to remind visitors from other parts of town that they are deep in the eastern suburbs, there is a bow-wave of nice frocks and many of the gentlemen are wearing ties and jackets at this time of year.

The menu reflects that. At One Tree Grill, Malyon and his chef, Simon Moss, sailed boldly into the Pacific Rim; here, almost at the rim of the Pacific, chef Mandy Jackson's food is a little more conservative. Jackson, from Sydney's Hugo's, uses ingredients and combinations that have become familiar over the past few years, and relies on sauces to give them a kick and individuality.

And what could be more traditional than borscht? The evening's complementary canape was a glass of chilled beetroot soup, enriched with creme fraiche, and a riesling (yes, it did work) to whet the appetite.

Roasted quail on a warm bean salad, with radiccio sweetened with a honey and rosemary vinaigrette, sounds like a meal but was a piquant entree; the Pacific oysters, served natural with an intriguing rice wine vinaigrette, were plump, fresh and sent on their way with relish.

Leg of lamb and snapper: a couple of Kiwis can't get more patriotic than that, can they? Especially when they order a side of mashed potato (it was truffled, okay?). Sadly, it arrived some time after the meals. The meat was a satisfying, pink, medium-

rare; the shallot tarte tatin with miso and blue cheese sauce lifted the meal into a contemporary joy. The fish was moist and fresh, but its treasure was the salad of neatly mated tastes: spinach, dried tomatoes, lemon and pine nuts, with more flavours in the lemon butter sauce and tapenade.

We're in a pinot noir mood at the moment, so happily went along with our young, self-confident and - like all the staff we dealt with - well-trained waitress' suggestion of the 2001 Mt Riley version from a remarkable list.
Jackson's half-dozen desserts cross familiar territory, with a citrus creme brulee, chocolate mousse and poached pear, and vanilla panna cotta. We weren't tempted.

So, Halo slipped just a couple of times, but our quibbles could easily be put right. For food like this, you can forgive a lot. Bless 'em.

Open: Lunch: 7 days from 12pm; dinner from 6pm

Owner: Guy Malyon

Manager: Tim Perry

Head chef: Mandy Jackson

Food: Pacific Rim, or Modern NZ , if you like

On the Menu: Smoked salmon and celeriac salad (chives, Italian parsley, spring onions, cornichons)$16; Asian spiced pork-hock served in a light broth with udon noodles and Asian greens, topped with chili jam and crackling $24.50; Leg of lamb served on a shallot tarte tatin with carrot puree, miso and blue cheese sauce $27.50

Vegetarian: You'd better ask the chef

Wine: Carefully considered and reasonably priced offering of quality wines, predominantly NZ; remarkable cellar selection too

Noise: Cocktail lounge

Bottom line: In the place that used to be Saints, Guy Malyon of Epsom's One Tree Grill has subtly updated a tired brasserie into a lively modern restaurant. Some oddities (like second-rate seating for couples) should be addressed, but for food like this you can forgive a lot.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, fashion and beauty in viva, part of your Herald print edition every Wednesday.