Hair care: Gently does it

The hair industry's move to "greener" and gentler products in response to consumer demand continues apace, from L'Oreal introducing ammonia-free hair dye in salons, to the marketing of at-home hair care in various guises of "good for you".

Shampoos increasingly boast the power of botanical ingredients. Some of these are all-natural concoctions, others simply throw in some plant-based conditioners to the standard mix of chemical foaming, cleansing and smoothing agents that make up most hair products.

There's no doubt some of the so-called "nasties" are increasingly being replaced, leading many shampoos to now boast what they're free of, almost as much as what they do contain. (Parabens, used as a preservative, and sodium laurel sulphate, used as a foaming agent, are top of the "free of" list, with some also omitting silicones, petrochemicals and artificial fragrance and colours).

In the face of widespread internet scare stories about certain chemicals - which generally have approval from international safety authorities - there's no doubt some companies are taking a precautionary approach, mostly with eco-friendly marketability firmly in mind. Others are driven by a strong commitment to keep things natural.

My view is that using natural ingredients makes sense, but chemical per se isn't a nasty word. Others will definitely disagree, and there's no argument that some products are harsher on hair and scalps than others, so if these can beeconomically and effectively replaced, then everyone is better off.

Your hair's condition should be your guide. Some people swear by expensive salon-only shampoos and others find supermarket offerings sufficient.

Safe and effective products are what people want. The prices for some specialty products are out of reach for many, but everyone deserves choice - which is where easy-to-decipher labelling is vital. Look for botanicals high up the ingredient list, which shows they're present in reasonable quantity, and don't be scared.

Hair care is well behind the skincare sector in offering customers a good range of natural alternatives, but they're increasingly out there and the move by big companies to rejig their ingredients shows which way the wind is blowing. Even the supermarket brands are now going greener, so it's easy for anyone to try a gentler shampoo and see if it makes a difference.

1. Pureology Super Smooth shampoo, 300ml, $40

It's a year since Pureology converted me with its sweet-smelling hydrating shampoo which is great for colour retention. This new one leaves hair equally soft and even smoother, so it's been a boon to keep my natural curl in check. Apparently natural sugars are used in the Thermal Anti-fade Complex to help create a heat-damage barrier, and there are antioxidants to guard against fade. The shampoo is expensive, but a bottle can last for months. It's vegan-friendly, and free of sulphates and salt, with a geranium scent. The shampoo comes with a salon-backed colour-care pledge or your money back guarantee. (Selected salons and specialty shampoo shops.)

2. Sukin Purifying Shampoo, 500ml, $15.99

Convincingly green and affordable Australian company that imparts clear product information (see www.sukinorganics.com.au). This shampoo is one of three it offers and suits sensitive scalps for daily use. It uses coconut-derived ingredients to gently cleanse and also comes in 250ml and 1 litre bottles. Contains an infusion of aloe vera, nettle, horsetail and burdock to soften and nourish. (From selected Farmers stores, pharmacies, and health stores. For stockists ph 0800 118 311.)

3. Via Eco slim paddle brush $17.99

Extend your eco-friendly reach by choosing a brush made from renewable, fast-growing bamboo. This one has bristles which release negative ions to give lustre and smoothness to hair. (From selected pharmacy and department store stands.)

4. L'Oreal Professionel Serie Nature Douceur d'Huile, 250ml, $33

This expansion to 2009's Serie Nature range uses bran and olive oils to help smooth and nourish rebellious hair types. Fatty acid-rich olive oil helps soften the fibre to fight frizz, without the need for added silicones. Bottles are recyclable plastic, and fragrance is added. (L'Oreal salons and specialty shampoo shops.)

5. Tresemme Naturals Nourishing Moisture Shampoo for dry or damaged hair, 750ml, $14.13

Another family-sized bottle from the company that claims salon quality at supermarket prices. No parabens or dyes, and lower rather than no sulphates, so it has an ingredient list that won't please purists, but which is gentler than the standard range. It's a good value buy, also in a formula for normal hair. This one is safe with colour, promises to strengthen hair and features aloe vera and avocado extracts. (From selected supermarkets.)

6. Burt's Bees More Moisture Raspberry & Brazil Nut shampoo, 354ml, $34.95

This proclaims itself 97.52 per cent natural (commercial products almost always contain small amounts of preservatives for a safe shelf life). It's free of sulphates, parabens, phthalates and petrochemicals and mixes fatty acid rich raspberry seed oil with marula and brazil nut oil to restore softness and shine to dry, damaged hair. They also make a Super Shiny formula containing grapefruit and sugar beet. (Stockists ph (toll free) 0508 734 466.)

7. Kiehl's Rice & Wheat Volumizing Shampoo, 250ml, $49

Grain proteins combine to give fullness and body to lifeless, fine hair in a new shampoo category from Kiehl's. Honey, jojoba seed and rice bran extracts add moisture and tame fly-away ends, without leaving greasy residue. (Exclusive to Smith & Caughey's, Queen St.)

8. Evolu Silkening Shampoo, 500ml, $29.95

For all hair types, this new product is gentle enough for daily use. It comes in family-friendly big bottles and has a great smell from revitalising sweet orange essential oil. Manuka honey is on the ingredient list as is lanolin so it's not for vegans, but it is otherwise animal-product free. As you'd expect, it has no parabens, phthalates and sulphates or any petrochemicals or mineral oils. It's also free of artificial colours or fragrances. (www.evolu.com)

9. Avalon Organics Lemon Clarifying Shampoo, 325ml, $18.99

Acts as a revitalising detox for hair, to rid it of product build-up and dullness. Shea butter moisturises and certified organic lemon oil refreshes. From a Canadian company that eschews the usual suspects and draws on essential oils to impart lovely fresh fragrances. (From Smith & Caughey's, selected health stores and pharmacies. Ph 0800 118 311.)

10. Bain de Terre Jasmine Moisturizing Shampoo, 400ml, $20

This new-to-pharmacy international range is typical of the trend to mine nature. It calls itself a "botaniceutical" and contains nutrient-rich extracts from magnolia bark, goji berries, blackcurrants and wild jujube, but is otherwise a fairly standard shampoo mix with added fragrance and colour. (Stockists ph 0800 604 604.)

Other options: Viva suggests natural hair care fans also check out their local health store for other brands - we've concentrated today on what's newest to shelves and how professional hair care companies are adapting, but omitted some of the good brands we wrote about last year when the "green" hair trend first started.

Among these to look out for are Sans by Auckland hairdresser Lucy Vincent-Marr (The Department Store and Stephen Marr salons), the extensive American organic range from Giovanni (from Farmers and health stores, ph 0508 423737) and Schwarzkopf's Essensity salon line.

British hairdresser Andrew Collinge has recently introduced a semi-green Purity line, which is economical and draws heavily on plant-based ingredients, but still uses fragrance and colouring additives (as do most of the mass-market brands).

As well as products from hair care specialists, there are plenty of natural-style shampoos from companies specialising mostly in skincare. These cleanse well enough, but don't always draw on the depth of knowledge the haircare industry has about treating different types of hair.