KEY POINTS:
I have always had a soft spot for the winemakers of Central Otago. They have a Pirates of the Caribbean, slightly anarchic approach to both winemaking and life.
It must be the cold winters or the relative sense of isolation.
There is a collective mindset that accentuates the positive and a raucous, blunt humour that can mask a level of gentle sophistication. Young gifted and gloriously reckless, they know how to work and party hard. They can be rude in an upfront, funny and inoffensive manner about each other's wines, but you know they'll be at your side in an instant should you require help in the vineyard.
To spend three days in their presence tasting over 40 current-release white wines grouped by varietals, followed by 50-something new release pinot noirs, requires a dangerous level of commitment and the constitution of an ox.
Throw in a couple of degustation dinners and a Saturday night curling as the snow falls at Naseby, and the whole event is like being in a parallel universe.
I call it research, those less charitable would deem it a junket. Whatever.
The main event was the unveiling of the 2007 Central Otago pinot noirs. Tasted blind there's no chance of favouring the tall poppy brands which, in a relatively short space of time, have established a worldwide reputation.
In fact Central Otago pinot noir is now mentioned internationally in the same breath as Marlborough sauvignon blanc.
The result is a very good year, uniformly across the board. A handful of stand-out wines, though they are not that far ahead of the rest of the pack, and no sign of any dross. The pinots had less of that cherry forward-fruit brightness and a bit more feral earthiness that gives a slight nod to burgundy - a style I prefer. Perhaps vine age is starting to make an impact.
On average, expect to pay around $40. It will be money well spent - salvation for stoic southern souls.
RECOMMENDED
2007 Mt Difficulty Roaring Meg Pinot Noir
Second tier wine from high-profile Central Otago winery. Superb value for money. Fruity, sweetish, light and approachable. A crowd-pleaser.
Price: $28
2007 Olssens Jackson Barry
Rich, deep colour which is reflected in the wine on the palate. Lovely, fine texture with a handcrafted feel to it. Mature pinot.
Price: $42
