A tasty gravy made from roast drippings is a glorious thing, says Nikki Birrell, and worth the effort. She explains how to get it right.
A winter roast is nothing without a delicious, tasty gravy. The packet versions don’t stand a chance next to one made from scratch, using the drippings of whichever cut of meat you’ve just roasted to perfection. However, the wrong consistency, lumps and a lack of flavour can take the joy out of your saucy endeavours, so here’s how to get it right every time.
The basic formula: Crafting the perfect gravy
A fundamental understanding of the gravy-making process is essential. It all starts with your pan drippings, those tasty bits left in the pan after you’ve roasted your meat (a few carrots and an onion roasted with the meat will add flavour to the drippings, as will herbs such as rosemary or thyme).
Once you’ve set the meat aside, skim the excess fat from the surface of the liquid that collected in the roasting pan, leaving a little bit to mingle with the juices. There is also an argument to leave most of the fat if you don’t mind the extra unctuousness it will add.
To pick up all the essential flavour of the pan, the best idea is to put the roasting pan over one or two hobs, over a medium heat, add a bit of water and scrape up all those tasty nuggets with a wooden spoon.
Then make your roux: this is done by combining your pan drippings with flour and whisking until you have a light golden colour – about two to three minutes. While still stirring, next you need to incorporate a good-quality stock, of a complementary flavour to the meat you’ve just roasted, or you can use the salted water from boiled veg, whisking consistently to prevent lumps. Simmer until desired consistency is achieved, seasoning to taste.
Fixing too-thick or too-thin gravy
If you’ve put too much flour in your roux, the consistency might end up too thick for your liking. The fix is easy, just add additional stock or water, gradually incorporating until the desired viscosity is attained. Exercise caution, though, to avoid diluting the flavour profile excessively.
Conversely, if your gravy is too thin, you can thicken it quickly with flour or cornstarch by stirring in three or four tablespoons of flour or cornstarch into a small amount of cold water until you have a smooth paste and then adding it little by little, while stirring, into your gravy, until you have your perfect consistency. Remember that the gravy will take time to thicken and reduce while on the heat, so give it time to do so before adding more flour paste.
Lumps in gravy can mar its velvety texture, but fear not. Strain the gravy through a fine mesh sieve or, even easier, use an immersion blender to restore its silkiness.
Home-made gravy beats a packet job any day.
Salvaging salty gravy
Should your gravy veer towards excessive saltiness, balance the flavour profile by adding unsalted stock or water in measured increments, tasting intermittently until equilibrium is restored.
Or some people swear by adding a small chopped raw potato, letting it simmer while stirring for about 15 minutes before removing the potato pieces, which will hopefully have absorbed the excess salt.
Tackling greasy or broken gravy
If your gravy is broken (ie. curdled) you can fix it by adding a little bit of warm water and whisking vigorously to restore the right balance of liquid to fat.
Turning up the flavour
If the flavour is lacking, there are few fixes to consider. Incorporating umami-rich ingredients such as soy sauce can help. Some people swear by a splash of wine or perhaps a bit of Cointreau. Worcestershire sauce, too, can impart some complexity. A little bit of Marmite or Vegemite can also add some oomph. Just remember to start small as you don’t want to overwhelm the gravy with a too dominant flavour, other than the roasty goodness from the drippings. A personal favourite is a teaspoon of redcurrant jelly, for a subtle touch of sweetness.
New Zealand Herald contributor Nikki Birrell has worked in publishing for nearly 20 years. Fanatical about food and seeing the world, when not travelling, eating, cooking, or writing about those — recent stories include making the most of mince, how to cook corned beef and pantry items with the longest shelf life — she likes bushwalks and tinkering with cocktail creations.
