Grand Harbour, at Viaduct Harbour

By GRAHAM HEPBURN for canvas

If you're catching up with friends, as we were one Saturday morning, you can't go past yum char for a good old gossip and gobble.

The lack of formality, hustle and bustle and the clamour are the most appealing aspects of the traditional Chinese brunch - you can eat as much or little as you fancy, the noise and chaos make it perfect for kids, and it's a bit of a free-for-all when the food hits the table, particularly if your chopstick skills are not so slick.

The only requirement is that you book, especially on the weekend, with popular places such as Grand Harbour.

One of the best places around town for yum char, Grand Harbour is a large, comfortable family restaurant. Dishes cost a few dollars each, and depending on your appetite you would be looking at a session costing you $15 to $20 each.

You'll be tempted by servings of fried squid, spring rolls, barbecued duck, pipis, and steamed or fried dumplings containing such things as pork, beef, prawns, scallops and vegetables. Grand Harbour has a wider variety of yum char dishes than most, especially when it comes to seafood, and you can also order from the extensive menu if something you fancy hasn't come swinging past your table.

Keep an eye out for the woman who pushes a trolley of Asian greens about the restaurant and cooks them beside your table before presenting them cut up and doused in soy sauce. It's simple but theatrical.

And there's also a trolley with a bewildering array of fluorescent-coloured desserts usually involving coconut, jellies or fruit, as well as custard tarts and sweet buns.

Leaving a stain-splattered tablecloth and the frantic atmosphere of Grand Harbour behind, we were overcome by a sense of serenity on the comparatively peaceful streets of downtown Auckland. Perhaps the effects of all that green tea were starting to kick in.

*****

Hours: Open seven days for yum char lunch, 11am-3pm weekdays, 10.30am-3pm weekends and public holidays. Also open for dinner 5.30pm-10pm.

Service: Friendly and constant

Ambience: Loud, vibrant

Parking: Plenty on the surrounding streets

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.