Grace, Birkenhead

By JAN CORBETT for canvas

Devonport is not the only charming Auckland village accessible by ferry. Birkenhead on Auckland's North Shore could outrank Devonport as a charming, seaside suburb with a wharf that has some magnificent views and arguably better shopping.

Grace has certainly added a touch of Ponsonby to Birkenhead. A long, narrow cafe with bench seating and minimalist decor, it offers menu and counter food.

I ordered the salmon and dill potato cake with wilted spinach, poached egg and hollandaise ($14.50). What should have been two cakes was one large lump of mashed potato with perhaps a little less salmon than I would have liked. But that was the only negative note.

Terrie delighted in her roast vegetable and feta salad ($13.50). We were, after all, at the lunch end of the morning. The youngest of our threesome - the one playing with the colouring pens and toy cars provided for him - scoffed a ham and cheese toasted sandwich also made to his request.

The truly good thing about Grace is that is does good coffee, which locals tell me cannot be guaranteed in these parts. Although it might be a strenuous hike from the wharf up Hinemoa St to Grace, with ferry sailings from downtown now at weekends, it could be worth the effort.

Parking: On the street outside

Ambience: Chic, but child-friendly

Open: For breakfast and lunch

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.