Good tastes: Smaller harvest not a bad thing

2008 Hawkshead Pinot Noir Bannockburn. Photo / Supplied

If you thought New Zealand winemakers would harvest a record-breaking number of grapes this year, you're in good company.

But this year's New Zealand wine vintage is expected to shrink slightly - for the first time. And industry leaders say it's a good thing.

Vineyards now cover 34,000ha nationwide, but the global wine market is challenging. Prices of New Zealand wine in some markets have dropped due to over-supply.

While news of a smaller vintage may sound dramatic, the fall is negligible. And the prospect of a slightly reduced vintage means quality can be the key.

It was a hot topic at the Pinot Noir 2010 conference in Wellington, where every international guest speaker agreed Kiwi sauvignon blanc had been damaged.

In recognition of top local pinot noir, a new award was given to two wineries at the conference. Ata Rangi in Martinborough and Felton Road winery in Central Otago were both presented with the "Tipuranga Teitei o Aotearoa" (Great Growth of New Zealand) award. Top Kiwi pinot noir is improving rapidly.

Costly it may be, but one or two great glasses of pinot noir are far more satisfying than five or six average ones any day.

WINES OF THE WEEK

2009 Boundary Vineyards Kings Road Pinot Noir $24

If you beat a path to your nearest specialist wine store, you may find this full-bodied South Island red. It's outstandingly good value at sub-$25.

2008 Hawkshead Pinot Noir Bannockburn $45

Denis Marshall and Ulrike Kurenbach went against the trend in Otago when they set up their Hawkshead Vineyard in Gibbston. This wine comes from the warmer Bannockburn region, close in distance but miles away in style, with substantial body and juicy black cherry taste.
hawksheadwine.com

2008 Locharburn Central Otago Pinot Noir $35

Vineyard owners Chris and Jenny Hill's winemaker Carol Bunn has created this tasty new red with cherry, raspberry and wild herb tastes. It won a silver medal at the 2009 Bragato Wine Awards.
locharburnwines.co.nz