Good taste: Emissions reduction

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Cue the bubbly this month because it marks 16 years since I wrote my first wine column; even if it's not a round number, it's a good excuse to drink bubbles.

This month also marks a first, as I discovered sitting inside a volcano in south Auckland. In the literally thousands of tastings I've been to in the past 16 years, I've never been to one where the bottle's weight was more important than its contents.

It was at Villa Maria Wines' Cemars accreditation launch - held at the winemaker's HQ, inside an old volcanic crater.

If you've never heard the acronym before, join the club. Aside from the winery staff, nobody present had heard of Cemars. It stands for Certified Emissions Measurement and Reduction Scheme. And Villa Maria Wines has become accredited to it this year.

As I watched my colleagues' eyes glaze over at the mention of another carbon-footprint-reducing stamp of approval, I wondered if I would remember what the letters stood for and if I even wanted to be enlightened about what this bizarre acronym had to contribute to the planet's well-being?

Part of me felt it would be better if we all just made a concerted effort to grow our own vegetables, recycle more and stopped buying rubbish for $4 from The $2 Shop. And yet schemes like Cemars are proving vitally important for New Zealand wine exporters because UK supermarkets are moving towards compulsory carbon emissions labelling on wines they sell.

To be accredited to Cemars, Villa Maria winery staff needed to measure emissions from their vineyards, the manufacture and transportation of their packaging, composting, road travel and air travel; domestically and internationally.

The comparatively small Mount Edward Wines has just gained full Bio-Gro certification for its winery near Queenstown.

Two of its three vineyards are also certified Bio-Gro, and this year will see the first certified organic Mount Edward wines. Will they taste better?

Maybe, but not necessarily. So why bother with all the paperwork that Bio-Gro entails?

It's a mindset and a philosophy, explains winemaker Duncan Forsyth. And along with Mount Edward founder and co-owner, Alan Brady, he is motivated by a desire to do right by the planet.

The biggest challenge, Forsyth says, is applying the principles they're using at work to their home lives - "No more Draino as a quick fix to a blocked drain". Although he confesses to a certain pride for having walked this far down the organic path, he won't be preaching any eco-gospel just yet - "There are still a few loose stones lying around our glasshouse".

WINES OF THE WEEK

2009 Villa Maria Single Vineyard Ihumatao Gewurztraminer $30

Seven hectares of Bio-Gro certified gewurztraminer grapes are grown inside the Ihumatao volcano; home to Villa Maria's national HQ. This is an intense, luscious, full bodied white; slightly off-dry. Serve chilled. villamaria.co.nz

2008 Mount Edward Central Otago Riesling $25

Wines like this confirm my suspicion that the best rieslings are at least as good as the top pinots from our southernmost wine region; its refreshing qualities include a lingering lime taste. mountedward.com

2008 Earth's End Central Otago Pinot Noir $26

This slinky smooth, soft but dark fruit-flavoured pinot noir has "drink-me-now" stamped all over it. earthsendwine.com