Garbo goes on an African holiday

By FIONA HAWTIN

Adrian Hailwood plundered Greta Garbo's on-holiday-in-Marrakesh wardrobe for his show at the Auckland Town Hall on the third day of Fashion Week yesterday.

Some holiday.

The enthusiastic fashion set were thinking of a jaunt there almost immediately after his show if they got to tour in his beautiful paisley satin, brilliant camel and wallpaper prints on a range of T-shirts, knits, skirts, dresses, jeans and cool silver and blue flat domed boots.

The clever graphic designer turned fashion designer really proved his star is on the rise, crediting many sources of inspiration for this range from his mother's 70s caftan to the smell of oranges.

Trelise Cooper's Powerful Women of Myths and Legends was a tribute to exactly that - Flora, Circe, Athena, Pandora, Daphne and Psyche.

All the usual Cooper flourishes - frills, flounces, raw edges, ruffles, dangly bits - were let loose to great effect in the biggest crowd-puller of the week.

She moved from a tartan punk feel through to sweet floral dresses to lovely embroidered mint green coats and damsel-in-distress gowns with ease.

It was vintage stuff from the self-confessed maximalist, who even managed to get a pair of elaborate boats on stage, complete with singer and musician.

Here's a novel way to wear your tights: over your heels.

Ugly use of pantyhose aside, Sim's first appearance at the L'Oreal-sponsored Fashion Week was well received.

Much use was made of brown - and minuscule hipster minis only the very young should attempt.

But the halter with half-skirt at the back, the belted jacket and the kilt in black and red plaid was a knock-out.

Catch's Lunar menswear collection was clothing for the modern astronaut.

The 60s-feel tight silver pants and shirt with black tie sprinkled with Milky Way stars and the velvet jacket with crystal stars is just the thing for the man about Nasa.

The womenswear continued the 60s theme with a fun silver mini.

Established label Glory showed nothing we hadn't seen before. It was the expected feminine offerings its loyal customers so enjoy.

Jane Rhodes' clients will also appreciate her range, including floral prints, velvet skirts, well-cut pants, a very sweet pink coat, a white tuxedo and a red corset.

Like Glory, the range on the runway lacked a distinct theme.

Not true of Roisin Dubh.

Known for Celtic screen prints, the label used the head of Madonna and baby Jesus among other things on skirts, pants and cheap mesh tops.

We're still wondering what the screen-printed words Uranus Illuminary mean.

Less puzzling was Miranda Brown's hand-dyed wool that used an adaptation of the Japanese shibori dye technique for her pieces in the Out of the Blue range. The big blanket-like wraps pinned with a kilt pin were all about warmth, as was the lovely, raw-edged check dress that was mostly over-dyed deep sea-green.

Some of Wellington designer Angeline Harrington's pieces harked back to the 50s but managed to stay on the modern side of retro. The oversized bow was a nice touch.

There was nothing oversized about model Nicky Watson's diamante bikini in the IPG show.

After that no one really noticed the clothes that followed, or E! TV host Cindy Taylor.

From the drag queen start, the shower of confetti, sprinkling of rain and the smoke machine that covered the front row, it looked as if we were in for a full amateur production from the local repertory theatre.

Thankfully, Watson and IPG's sexy, signature halter dresses saved the day.

Some designers are compelled to show in grungy, wide open spaces. It must be something to do with ambience.

For Dunedin label Nom D's Don't Shoot high-energy show on Tuesday evening, as part of Fashion Week, fashion-goers made the great trek to the Auckland Showgrounds.

The collection was designer Margarita Robertson's inimitable take on 60s mod, where hoods featured on sweatshirts, coats and duffels.

So keen is Robertson on hoods that there were often two or more in a single outfit.

These staples were amped up with orange as an accent, bright striped leggings and arms, peace signs and graphics saying Don't Shoot and Bambi in the shooter's gun sight.

Herald Feature: New Zealand Fashion Week

L'Oreal New Zealand Fashion Week official site