From ‘Sephora kids’ to social media trends - what skincare should adolescents actually be using?

Beauty editor·NZ Herald·

23 Mar, 2024 05:30 PM5 mins to read

Adolescents are wanting to stock up on the skincare products they see trending on TikTok, but many of the ingredients aren't suited to younger skin. Photo / Getty Images

Children as young as 9 years old have been seen frequenting beauty retailers such as Mecca and Sephora in search of products they’ve seen on social media, coining the term “Sephora kids” and causing concern from parents about active ingredients on young skin. While it may be hard to convince your teen that many of these products are unnecessary, the conversation is an important one. We’ve also got a line-up of teen-friendly skincare products that tick all the aesthetic boxes without the anti-ageing ingredients, to help your teen build a consistent and appropriate regimen.

Drunk Elephant D-Bronzi Drops, The Ordinary Glycolic Acid Toner and Rhode Peptide Lip Treatment were some of the most-talked-about skincare products on TikTok in 2023, but if these names are not familiar to you, it’s almost a guarantee they will be to your teen or even pre-teen.

While many Gen Z and millennial consumers have begun to rely on social media for beauty recommendations, the trend has unsurprisingly trickled down to the younger generation too, which has led to a phenomenon known as “Sephora kids”.

In January, the New Zealand Herald reported that girls as young as 9 were flocking to Sephora and Mecca stores in search of brands including the highly active Drunk Elephant and Glow Recipe, which contain ingredients suited to more mature skin, such as retinol and peptides.

While these brands may look teen-friendly due to their eye-catching, colourful packaging and vibrant marketing campaigns, it’s their anti-ageing benefits and on-trend active ingredients that have made them popular on social media — many of which are unnecessary for adolescent skin.

Formulas that contain retinol in particular are generally not recommended for teenagers and pre-teens for several reasons. While vitamin A derivatives such as retinol and tretinoin can be prescribed by a doctor or dermatologist for the treatment of acne, the ingredient is commonly used in skincare products due to its ability to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and promote collagen production.

Retinol can be harsh and potentially irritating, leading to redness, dryness and peeling, especially when used in high concentrations, and because younger skin tends to be more sensitive and delicate compared to adult skin, there is an increased risk of adverse effects. What’s more, retinol can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight, increasing the risk of sunburn and sun damage.

If you have a teenager talking about using skincare, the best place for them to start is by using an SPF of 30 or higher every day, leaving the retinol alone until at least their mid-20s.

It’s important to help your teenager understand their skin type and the common skincare concerns they may face, such as acne, dryness and sensitivity, and highlight the importance of consistency in skincare routines. Social media may have caused some misconceptions for your teen around produce use and ingredients, so be sure to listen to their concerns and seek the guidance of your GP or dermatologist for additional support and assistance if needed.

A three-step routine of a gentle cleanser, hydrating moisturiser and sunscreen is suitable for most teens, with added extras such as face masks and acne products to be used when needed and depending on skin type.

Skincare suited to teenagers for less than $45

Cleansers

Look for gentle cleansers that will remove makeup, sunscreen and end-of-day grime without stripping the skin of its natural oils, which could lead to a compromised skin barrier and sensitivity. A gel cleanser will ensure a deep clean to help avoid pores getting clogged.

Go-To Juicy Gel, $44.

Essano Happy Skin Clean Canvas Jelly Cleanser, $27 .

Moisturisers

If your teen is looking for buzz-worthy ingredients in their skincare, such as hyaluronic acid and squalane, instead of opting for serums that will tick up the value of the shopping cart, choose moisturisers packed with goodness instead. Hyaluronic acid is fantastic for teen skin as it offers intense hydration and is suitable for all skin types, even those with acne.

Frula Beauty Hyaluronic Super Hydrating Moisturiser, $22.

Bondi Sands Sweet Dreams Night Moisturiser, $21.49.

SPF

Getting teens into the habit of applying sunscreen every morning will serve them well, but anyone suffering from troublesome skin will likely want to avoid sunscreens that feel too heavy or make skin look shiny. There are plenty of lightweight SPFs to choose from, and many also contain nourishing ingredients such as niacinamide to help protect the skin barrier beyond exposure to UVA and UVB rays.

Ultra Violette Lightweight SPF Duo, $43.

La Roche Posay Anthelios Invisible Fluid SPF 50+, $36.99.

Adorable extras

Part of the attraction of skincare for teens is being able to experiment with viral trends and “must-have” products, such as face masks, pimple patches and juicy lip balms. These little extras are fairly wallet-friendly and a fun cherry on top of a simple three-step skincare routine.