From France, with love

2007 Clos Henri Marlborough Pinot Noir. Photo / Martin Sykes

Jean-Marie Bourgeois of Domaine Henri Bourgeois is one of the most revered wine producers in Sancerre, France. Sancerre is famous for its sauvignon blanc, but it's a small winemaking region with strict regulations, which make it impossible to enlarge the vineyards.

So Domaine Henri began a 12-year search for a site in New Zealand like its Sancerre one, where world class sauvignon blanc and pinot noir could be grown. Bourgeois' search ended at a 100ha hillside site in the upper Wairau Valley in Marlborough in mid-2000. The former sheep station was transformed into a high density 5000-vines-per-hectare vineyard and the first wines were produced in 2003.

Bourgeois is at great pains to point out that, "we are making a sauvignon blanc with a Marlborough terroir, not a Sancerre". "I'm rediscovering my passion for winemaking in a new terroir, with the freedom to plant grapes and make wines without French restrictions," he says, during a winemaker's lunch in Auckland. "It's much easier to make wine in New Zealand - we make it with our heart, not on paper."

Initially the wines were made offsite but early this year the Marlborough Clos Henri Winery was completed, just in time to make the 2009 vintage. "The design of the winery reflects the way we work," says young French winemaker Damien Yvon. "We're not big on fancy machinery, we've gone for space and quality materials for ease of work. We're committed for the long term and we want everything to reflect the quality of the wine."

Vineyard manager Takaki Okada is an engaging, humorous, Japanese 30-something who complements a young, committed team at Domaine Henri.

"My goal in the vineyard is to retain the Marlborough flavour but get great texture. I want to get rid of that sharp green flavour - we're looking for more subtlety. What's the point in having a French influence but doing exactly the same?"

Marlborough wines with a French mind - we ought to be flattered, not fearful.

Recommended

2008 Clos Henri Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc
Suave, sophisticated and elegant. A sauvignon for grown-ups who appreciate substance over style. Harmonious, luscious with a hint of mystery and complexity. Lovely texture and mineral dry finish.
Price: $34

2007 Clos Henri Marlborough Pinot Noir
Ripe fruit flavours with restrained elegance, silky tannins and gently integrated French oak. Plums, spice and cherries wrapped in mild herbs.
Price: $40