KEY POINTS:
The old advertising adage that what the industry needs are young, exciting 20-somethings with 40 years' experience applies also to the ever-expanding wine industry.
Almost every week it seems that another winery bursts forth like a daffodil in spring. Bright-eyed, bushy-tailed and ready to take on the world with all the energy, excitement and idealism of youth. Good on them.
A decent dose of realism permeates the whacky world of wine and no amount of dour negativity is likely to shatter the dream of producing your own wine from your own vines.
In their heart of hearts they must know this is not the fast-track to riches but the rewards of patience and the thrill of embracing a dream means that rational thought remains suspended.
These are times for daring and risk. I take my hat off to the new kids on the block, Dolbel Estate. There was a quiet release of its first Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc in 2006. But now, comes the first real commercial release of three new white wines from the 2007 vintage.
Dolbel estate is unusual among Hawkes Bay wine producers because its first priority is not red, but white wines. This is almost akin to marching into the Burgundy region of France and announcing you're planning to plant cabernet and merlot.
The locals will be sharpening the guillotine before you've got your first vine in the ground. Not that Hawkes Bay doesn't already produce some exciting white wines, it's just that reds do so extraordinarily well, and to start off with sauvignon and two chardonnay styles demonstrates a good deal of chutzpah.
Dolbel fits the advertising mantra for youth coupled with experience. They've been growing grapes in the region for some well-known Hawkes Bay winemakers since 1990.
The winemaker is Tony Prichard, who had a long career as original winemaker for Church Road. Classy wines, reasonable prices. A perfect start.
Recommended
2007 Dolbel Estate Unoaked Chardonnay
Unbelievable value for money. Ripe bouquet, fruit characters with good dash of minerality. Crisp and clean.
Price: $20
2007 Dolbel Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Fermented in old oak barrels producing a Graves-style character. Powerful, concentrated and different. Sauvignon for those over sauvignon.
Price: around $24
