Foundation course

Finding the right foundation is the bane of many women's lives. I often hear complaints about coverage and field questions about formulations. Yet, I find most modern foundations pretty darn good. Way less disappointing than some lipsticks and less complicated to choose than the right mascara.

Sure, it's annoying to find your favourite foundation has been deleted, but you may well find the replacement to be better. Bases have been imbued with increased luminosity, papering over fine lines and making skin appear natural and healthy. Oil-control formulas reduce shine. Many formulas are long wearing but non-drying, so after eight hours at work your makeup shouldn't have melted into your skin.

These are results you can see immediately, rather than the pay-and-pray promise of many skincare products. (There's promises aplenty with foundation too, with skincare favourites such as antioxidants and peptides increasingly being added to the mix, along with skin tightening formulas). But sticking with the superficial - and what's more superficial than applying a surface coat to your complexion - it's amazing how a little slap smoothes over rough edges and evens out colour. Except for the very young and exceptionally blessed, especially those with naturally glowing olive complexions, I can't understand how anyone thinks their skin looks better without a little well-chosen foundation. The trick is in the choosing.

There's a stack of different foundation types, so perhaps, therein lies the problem. Too much, rather than enough, choice. Narrowing the category down to my favourite foundation, the liquid variety, I quickly had upward of half a dozen new examples to test, all of which have arrived over the last few months and weeks. Revlon has a big launch next month of New Complexion and others are on the way.

If your interest extends beyond liquid to cake foundations and loose powder mineral makeup, well that's several more columns looming for some other time. Mineral makeup has really gone mainstream in the last year or so with yet more big beauty brands getting in on the act. Cake foundations are being reconstituted into increasingly pleasant, moisturising mixes, found everywhere from luxury ranges La Prairie and soon La Mer, through to budget brands. Airbrush foundations are ahead.

But in the here and now, the best way to get a foundation to suit is to test it on your face, not the back of your hand. Sit down and seek advice at a cosmetic counter. Make sure you're clear on what you want in terms of coverage, light or full, matte or not and on what your skin type is, because you don't want a creamy rich foundation on oily skin or a water-based one on a drier complexion. Explain if your skin tends to redness or if you like to look like you've got a light tan, but bear in mind overly dark foundation looks odd and your throat area will probably need a little bronzing to even things out. And as you age remember less is more, concentrate on evening out pigmentation on the T-zone and cheeks and feather out the coverage across the rest of the face.

If you've already got a favourite colour, bring it shopping for a match. This is a good way of keeping a colour you like, but trying a new formula. If you're trying to pin down the right colour, try a few shades on. At Bobbi Brown counters they paint little stripes of several shades on your cheek and then choose the right one based on which blends most seamlessly into your naked skin tone. Yellow-toned foundations suit more people than pinkish ones.

If you're unsure of the colour you're trying, ask for a small sample to take away. A foundation can be a costly purchase and you'll be stuck with it for months, so it pays to be happy. If they don't do samples and you're undecided about what has been applied, feel free to wander off into natural light or go home and have another look before you commit the cash.

Finally, if you want your foundation to look good, think of it as undercoat on the canvas that is your skin. Before applying you need to ensure the surface is up to scratch and that requires disciplined cleansing, exfoliation and moisturising. Consider using a primer as any artist would, and don't forget concealer, then carefully apply the undercoat (i.e. foundation), blending it well. Dust with a little loose powder to set, then you're ready to paint.

1 Clinique Even Better Makeup SPF15 $58

Delivers moderate matte coverage to combination and oily skins in an oil-free, hypoallergenic formula that helps disguise surface imperfections. Contains ingredients that over time help to fade discolouration. Good for everyday and outdoors.

2 Lancome Teint Renergie Lift R.A.R.E SPF20 $84

Smoothes on supremely well and lasts. One pump is enough, but the well-honed dispenser can easily do a part-pump if you want a little more. This is a firming, radiance-enhancing foundation for maturing skin, but there's a lighter version too. Love it.

3 Clarins Super Restorative Foundation True Lift SPF15 $89

This feels richly creamy on the skin and leaves it looking softly smooth and yes, firmer, while providing full coverage. A treat that won't disappoint.

4 Diorskin Nude Natural Glow Hydrating Makeup SPF10 $89

The name may say Nude, but this gives thorough coverage, while looking natural on the skin. It contains mineral pigments and I found it really needed rubbing in compared with others tested, but once smoothed on it has excellent staying power. For this reason I'd say it would best suit those aged 30 plus, but it's heavier texture may not work on very mature, lined skin.

5 Nars Firming Foundation $150

This makeup artist brand has a more fluid feel than the other firming foundations tested, so it's a good step up for those used to light tints, but now looking for more cover. Sadly the great-looking signature Nars black rubber packaging tends to lose its cool once your foundation-covered fingers get a grip.

6 Maybelline Dream Liquid Mousse $34.99

Feels slick on the skin and gives sheer cover, but perhaps not mattifying enough for oilier skins. For the price, it's a winner.

7 L'Oreal Age Re-Perfect Re-Plumping Foundation $49.99

For mature to very mature skin, this has an extremely light creamy texture and feels good a few hours down the track. The colour looks much darker and yellower in the jar than it appears on the skin, so if you're interested in this product do test it first.

Stockists: Brand counters in department stores and pharmacies, with L'Oreal and Maybelline at larger supermarkets. Nars exclusive to Mecca, Ponsonby Rd or www.meccacosmetica.co.nz