KEY POINTS:
Some of the most influential people in fashion aren't designers or fashion editors. Sure, designers and editors can help shape the trends and influence what you want to buy, but there are also those who are far less high-profile but have just as big an impact: they're the store owners who influence what it is that's actually available for the public to buy. We talk to some Auckland boutique owners, and find out what they're buying this winter.
Mei Mei
Owner/buyer: Jo Pearson
Location: Ponsonby, Auckland
The look: To-die-for designer shoes in a gallery like store.
What have you bought for autumn/winter?
Our autumn/winter has been in store since the end of 2008 - we try to run with the same seasons in Europe but at the same time providing transeasonal footwear, the idea being that you can buy a pair of boots or a sandal all year round. Our next delivery will be for summer 2009 from Fiorentini & Baker, but I have ordered some boots so we can sell them straight away. As far as trends go, I've been buying quite strong and sexy directional shoes and boots, but at the same time trying to keep the look timeless.
Anything new and exciting in store for winter?
We have quite a few new brands in store, and some still to arrive in March. We are stocking Les Prairies De Paris, a cute label from Paris; Maloles, handmade flats from Spain; Poem, and Chie Mihara, a Japanese Spanish shoe designer. We have a new bag label from a French designer called Jerome Dreyfus. Elsa is a particularly exciting new brand for us; it is designed by Belgian shoe designer Els Proust, who has worked for Dries Van Noten and Costume National.
What are you most excited about stocking this season?
Barbara Bui continues to excite us every season; we have stocked her shoes for nearly seven years now. The leather this season is just exquisite, and I love the fact that she manages to pull off a strong sexy look that is elegant but still has a rock 'n' roll attitude.
How has the recession influenced your buying habits?
We are finding that our customers want to buy quality shoes that will last more than one season. We are introducing our own Mei Mei brand of shoes this season that will be very affordable, and which I hope to be able to eventually wholesale.
What will you be buying for yourself this winter?
I don't generally follow trends but just buy what I fall in love with. This season I love my purple Olivia Morris shoes, and I can't get enough of Jamie's trousers and basics.
Verranda Young
Owner: Carol Young
Location: Birkenhead Point, Auckland
The look: European chic, with an eclectic mix of European, Australian and New Zealand labels.
What have you bought for the store for autumn/winter?
Shift and tunic dresses with dropped waists in raw and expressive fabrics, from a new French Label called Ba-SH. They can be layered up over leggings or skinny pants, or worn as a simple, stunning dress. I've also bought gorgeous woollen jumpers and cardigans which look amazing with the beautiful silk scarves I have in store from Day Birger et Mikkelsen. Pants for winter are either narrow or wide-legged with a higher waist, so floaty silk blouses can be tucked in teamed with heels. It's a 70s look with an edge.
Any new labels in store?
A French label called Ba-SH; Won Hundred, a very cool Danish label, and Repetto shoes from Paris. These compliment my existing labels of Zambesi, Nom*D, Cybele, White Suede, Alice McCall, Life With Bird, Cheap Monday and Kathryn Wilson.
What will you be buying for your own wardrobe?
Each season I purchase a new pair of boots, a pair of Life With Bird pants, and this year lots of scarves from Day Birger et Mikkelsen. I always get something from Zambesi, and I'll always get a new pair of White Suede jeans and maybe one of their amazing leather or suede bomber jackets.
Has the recession influenced your buying habits?
Women don't want to know about the recession, but it has meant I've deleted labels that have been slow and am concentrating on those that sell well and have a good following.
Myhart
Owner/buyer: Steve Ferguson
Location: Central Auckland
The look: Edgy and hip for creative-minded people, with a range of Australian and European labels.
What have you bought for the store for autumn/winter 2009? Lengthwise, it is shifting further towards the ankle or wrists. Fabrics are ethereal: light as air chiffons, silks and wools. Leather and lace. Colours are "Urban Camouflage"; blush, desert sands, overcast greys and grungy florals.
What are the key trends for winter?
Optimism and comfort.
Any new brand?
The Jersey Button up Leggings from our new London label Future Classics are the season must-buy. Plus relaxed tailored coats and jackets by B-Store.
What new pieces are you most excited about?
Henrik Vibskov menswear, and Jimmy D's Puritan Long wool skirt.
How has the recession influenced your buying habits?
We're buying pieces that our customers can really connect with, pieces that are timeless and full of character.
Drop Dead Gorgeous
Owner: Karyn Beadle
Location: Newmarket, Auckland
The look: sleek and elegant high-end designer fashion.
What have you bought for the store for autumn/winter?
We carry in line with the international seasons so we are up-to-the-minute with the latest fashion; stock hits our floor at the same time as any other store worldwide. We'll start taking delivery now of the summer 2009 collections. We have seen a definite shift from multicoloured, patterned pieces - the designers we stock concentrated on the monochromatic look in soft natural colours, pale nude, peaches and cream, soft greens with burnt ambers. The overall designs, while having their own detail, were more subtle with pieces being more relaxed than structural. Jumpsuits and oversized blazers are obvious examples.
Any new labels?
We are really excited to be launching new designer Jenni Kayne into store this week. Her collections show a sophistication and wearability filled with luxurious must-haves and modern yet timeless pieces. Look out for her tuxedo style jacket, it rocks!
How has the recession influenced your buying habits for the store?
Each of our designers are well-established and have their own unique style which has been key to their success with our clients. We are pleased that even with talk of recession, designers have stayed true to themselves and have continued to produce strong and inspiring collections. We have seen an increase in the demand for good quality basics as opposed to disposable pieces, and are introducing new lines like Maggie Ward and Kain this season to cater for this.
What will you be buying for your own wardrobe?
I'm still in love with the Rich&Skinny boyfriend jeans, which are appropriate at the moment for people wanting to feel more relaxed and look slightly more understated. Put together with a Minnie Rose superfine cashmere hoodie over a tee, boots and Stella McCartney grey tote with a chain and wooden handle, shows our customers looking fashion forward but relaxed - which is where fashion is heading for this next season.
Jetset Bohemian
Owner: Kirsten Tweedie
Location: Grey Lynn, Auckland
The look: A mix of old and new, "like a curiosity shop, although without the usual dust that comes with it".
What have you bought for the store for autumn/winter?
We are mixing more luxurious fabrics with a softer casual twist. So you'll find sequin dresses worn as daywear, prim lacy shirts with leather skirts and fur vests from Kashmir. People who favour the clean-cut look can find pieces that they can wear to work, while we add a "kick out the jams" attitude to cater for people who are a little more daring.
Do you have any new pieces in store for winter?
We have exciting new pieces, mixing motorbike jackets, leather vests, vintage rabbit fur bombers with pieces by French Connection, Zoe & Morgan jewellery and Zadig & Voltaire tees. I love to bring in labels but my favourite finds are the one-off pieces and little-known underground designers. It forces me to stretch my imagination without my decisions being influenced by branding.
What piece are you most excited about for winter?
I'm really happy with the leather jackets currently being made from recycled leather jackets; old makes new.
Superette
Owner: Rickie Dee
Location: Newmarket, Auckland
The look: laid back, youthful and modern clothes alongside fun accessories.
What new stock have you bought for autumn/winter?
Androgynous pieces have been a key look for us this season. Girls are wearing guys' oversized tees, harem style pants and cardis in palettes of marle, charcoal and black. Jackets are big, with cropped tailored blazers appearing in many collections from Bassike to Lover, Sass and Bide and Alice McCall. A rock chick feel has been introduced by many designers with leather-look denim for both guys and girls, skinny leg PVC "rats" by Sass and Bide and black leather mini skirts by Lover. Stolen Girlfriends Club have teamed a large portion of their collection up with lace - their lace frill dress has already been a hit, with the collection dropping in store only two days ago. Denim is still skinny for girls, but an introduction of a baggy "ex-boyfriend" style jean from Sass and Bide is going to be strong. For guys, the tees are in-your-face prints or the total opposite, no prints at all, concentrating on quality and cut.
Do you have any new labels?
New to our store this season are Therese Rawsthorne, Antipodium, Skinny Nelson, Fortune's Fool, and Superfine Denim. It's exciting!
What are you most excited about?
We're lucky in the fact that we carry such a diverse variety of labels that all bring something new and unique - it's always exciting to see what each designer showcases each season. It's hard to narrow it down to one but a personal standout is Therese Rawsthorne; her over-accentuated frill pieces and muted colours mix the rock chick style while still keeping a feminine touch.
What will you be buying for yourself this winter?
I'm in love with the Bassike cropped denim jacket, the new Sass and Bide "Le Bon" jeans - they have an amazing leather look to them. Stolen Girlfriends Club have recreated my favourite dress from last season, the Dust 'n' Bones, 80s style long-sleeve mini. I'll definitely be adding the black velvet version to my wardrobe. And I have to mention Deadly Ponies' Mr Fill 'n' Zip leather handbag which I'm eagerly awaiting.
Who is your customer?
Do you have any well-known clients? Our customers are at a stage, and not an age. Over time we have had lots of international celebrity customers like Scarlett Johannson, Kate Bosworth, Josh Hartnett, Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel.
Adorno
Owner: Jennifer Cole
Location: Ponsonby, Auckland
The look: Sophisticated, good quality pieces from Italy, France and Britain.
What new stock have you bought for autumn/winter?
Our look for winter is an easy, relaxed look, long-line jackets, some length with a slight military influence. Cashmere coats that either wrap or are more fitted to mid-calf. Pants are ankle-length which look wonderful with an ankle boot, straight-legged or the newer, wider legs with a nod to Katherine Hepburn. The tunic is still strong and when worn over a pair of Joseph skinny stretch pants and a high flat boot the look is stunning.
How has the recession influenced your buying habits?
The global crisis has made everyone re-evaluate their spending habits. We will be buying less, looking after our customers and keeping a firm eye on our pricing. Like all importers we are working with an extremely low dollar which is a big challenge!
Do you have any new labels?
This season we're introducing only one, Emma Hope shoes from Britain.
What will you be buying for yourself this winter?
My favourite pieces from this winter are a Barbara Bui fitted trench which I will be teaming up with one of our Matilde Cashmere sweaters in red and a pair of ankle-length trousers. I have a beautiful pair of ankle boots which completes the look. Another favourite is the Vanessa Bruno dress in black wool which skims the body and has tiny fur sleeves. For evening, Phillip Lim's take on the trench, in black silk chiffon, is divine worn over a pair of wide-legged satin trousers or just a pair of killer heels.
