KEY POINTS:
Exactly what is it that has the wine industry so excited about the 2008 vintage?
Volume and, according to reports from most regions, quality. But as one veteran wine writer wryly observes, every year is great and even if the volume is down, then rest assured the quality will be fabulous. He has a point.
Who in this precarious industry is game enough to stand up and say when a vintage is appalling? It would be like a band which, having enjoyed critical acclaim and success, on the release of its third CD declares it to be a bit of a dog - boring songs, tedious melodies and sloppy production.
It ain't gonna happen. Instead, the release would be described as a "radical departure from previous outings with innovative, stylistic vocalisation and a paired down production technique to allow the songs to speak for themselves".
At a recent briefing, NZ Wine-growers chief executive Philip Gregan and his executive team delivered the Review for Vintage 2008. I always find these extremely useful. Not only do you get an excellent overview of what happened where and why, but also a good understanding of where our wine is headed.
Then there is the opportunity to ask questions of the people who chart what is going on in the industry. According to NZ Winegrowers, the size of this year's vintage (aside from new plantings) is the result of an absence of adverse weather effects and just the right volume of rain after flowering, which gave the vines enormous impetus. I have first-hand experience.
My world's-smallest-non-commercial- vineyard on Waiheke Island has gone from one barrel - about 300 bottles each for 2006 and 2007 - to five barrels this year. While feeling very much like the mouse that squeaked rather than roared, there is something very satisfying about a 500 per cent increase in production.
Sometimes size matters - but ultimately it's quality that speaks volumes.
Recommended
2007 Artisan The Sands Block Sauvignon Blanc
West Auckland vineyard with Marlborough links. Distinctive powerful aromas, herbaceous.
Price: $20
2006 Mount Dottrel Pinot Noir
Central Otago charmer. Vibrant, dark fruit and cherry flavours with a touch of spice and smoky oak. Great with game dishes.
Price: $35
