Fish, Kingsland

By MICHELE HEWITSON for viva

Oh, we did have a jolly time at Fish. There was a nice fellow in a white apron who we decided was the dishwasher helping the kitchen out by taking out a few plates. I said, "Do you make that sauce for the prawn cocktail yourselves?" And he beamed and said, "We do". And I said, "From that top-secret recipe?"

"Ha, ha," he said and then he sat down for a gossip. He was the boss, of course. His name is Tony and he owns a few fish joints around the town. He said this one had been open about two weeks and that he was keeping it a bit quiet because some naughty reviewers have been known to turn up the moment the doors open. I can't think who he meant.

Earlier we had had a cigarette outside with the world's nicest restaurant keeper, Mr Tom Maguire, and his friend. We talked about the American election and prawn cocktails - those ones that come in silly glasses with muck all over them - and about how this one at Fish was bloody good.

It had very crisp, absolutely fresh iceberg lettuce, fat prawns and the top secret sauce. Tom had had fish and chips. He gave it the Tom's thumbs-up. You can have gurnard ($12.50) or blue nose ($18) or snapper ($19) if you have it deep-fried. Crumbed or - if you have made the trip from Ponsonby - grilled will cost you a buck more. But first you should have the garlic bread which would tempt anyone off the Atkins diet: it is charred around the edges and sodden with garlicky butter in its middle and very good for you.

They make their own tartare, too, although if you want to go flash you can have salsa verde or wasabi cream or dill caper aioli.

Because this is health food you can have baby potato (that's what it says and it serves you right that if you order one, you get one). I had fries. They were good and nobody will frown at you if you add the required amount of salt.

The arts editor had salt and pepper squid which were big fat lovely rings - mostly they are skinny little things like the people who order grilled fish. The television critic had some salmon cerviche which sounded a bit a show-offy to me. He didn't criticise it though.

He also had risotto which was supposed to be with giant cockles and pipis ($19.50), but no pipis so mussels instead and it came in crayfish broth which was very good, I thought. He said the risotto was a bit grainy for his particular liking. Well, I loved it but was looked at in the way I am when I say that I reckon Survivor Bangladesh might make good television.

The arts ed had fish and gratin and a greek salad. I think that makes her terribly modern in her tastes.

There are no top-secret recipes at Fish, just one very good old-fashioned one: nice room, fresh food, lovely service and terrific gossip. I do hope, though, that the staff stop all that "Sirring" and "Madaming." It's a fish shop, albeit a posh one.

We did have pud. A lemon and lime tart for the art tart. She is not very discerning in such matters and gobbled it up. It tasted stale to me, and the filling was pulling away from its edges. "And what would I know?" she said. I know what I like and I quite liked the little steamed chocolate banana pudding with a properly runny inside. What I would really have liked was a hokey-pokey ice cream for afters. I might have a word with the dishwasher.

Open: 7 nights from 5pm; Sat and Sun for lunch from 11.30am. Also does takeaways.

Owner: (and part-time waiter) Tony Adcock

Head chef: Peter Becker

Manager: Inga Perry

Food: Flash fish and chips

On the menu: Marinated fish with wasabi cream, $9.50; Garlic chilli prawn kebabs with Greek salad, $22; passionfruit cheesecake, $11.50

Vegetarian: It's a fish cafe

Wine list:Quite flash for a fish and chippy; extensive whites by the glass

Bottom line: Patrick Steele designed a room with rosy walls and hanging shells which makes you think of little fishes swimming in a pretty pink sea. It's part of what helps this pricey, pretty chippy make you feel chirpy.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, fashion and beauty in viva, part of your Herald print edition every Wednesday.