Festive tipples

Black Estate Pinot Noir 2006, Tarras Pinot Noir Rose 2009, Dog Point 207 Chardonnay. Photos / Babiche Martens

If you can't crack open a bottle of the good stuff at Christmas, then when can you? It's time to treat yourself to some top drops, especially with your festive meal. They don't have to lead to you remortgaging your home, but in spending a few extra dollars you'll be repaid with often significantly smarter wines, such as these very special bottles I've selected here.

WELL-PRICED ALL-ROUNDERS
That said, for those expecting a large influx of guests or hosting parties over the festive season it's also good to have a selection of more modestly priced bottles on hand - but choose wisely as cheap and nasty is not a great look in the season of giving. Select a range of good all-rounders such as lightly oaked chardonnays and fruity reds - this well-priced trio should serve you well and being such sophisticated examples, no one should guess that they've cost you less than $20!

Sea Level Awatere Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 $16.95

This super sauvignon, that exudes freshly squeezed lime, melon, passion fruit and coriander leaf is the first release from Whitehaven winemaker Sam Smail's own label. While examples from Marlborough's southern Awatere Valley sub-region still have plenty of intensity, their style tends to be more elegant and food friendly, making them a particularly good staple for the Christmas fridge. (From First Glass, Caro's, Glengarry, Liquorland Newmarket and Parnell, Alberton Fine Foods.)

Spinyback Nelson Chardonnay 2008 $14.90-$18

Ultimate all-purpose white, chardonnay can be quaffed with foods that range from poultry to seafood, egg and cheese-based dishes to pork. This classy creamy textured chardonnay delivers succulent and fleshy peach and mango fruit supported by nuances of well-judged smoky, toasty oak. (From First Glass, Eden Foods, Wine Vault, Point Wines, Manly Liquor, Cambridge Fine Wines, Scenic Cellars.)

Taylors Promised Land South Australia Cabernet Merlot 2007 $16.99

Big, ripe Aussie reds are a must for the barbecue and this one's a well-priced little ripper. Its rich and juicy blackcurrant fruit is underpinned by earthy, cedary, spicy undertones and hint of liquorice and cocoa. (Widely available from supermarkets.)

EXCEPTIONAL SAUVIGNON
It's the nation's favourite grape, so many wine shoppers will be seeking out extra special sauvignons for the season. While most in the marketplace may be mid-priced examples for everyday sipping, there are an increasing array of more sophisticated examples now being made.

Greywacke Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 $26

One of my top sauvignon picks of the year is the first fruits of a new venture by ex-Cloudy Bay chief winemaker and Marlborough sauvignon pioneer, Kevin Judd. You'd expect something pretty impressive from Judd and this understatedly stunning sauvignon is just that with its elegant nectarine, gooseberry and lemongrass fruit bound up by a silky citrus acidity and underpinned by its intense slaty, mineral note. (From Glengarry, First Glass, Liquorland.)

VERSATILE STYLES
Given the wide range of food Kiwis consume at Christmas, getting in wines that are the equivalent of the little black dress in terms of their versatility is definitely a good call.

Riesling, especially made in a drier style, is a classic that has this in spades. It has the lighter body to suit the delicate nature of fish and seafood dishes and the intensity to tackle more powerful Asian flavours such as coriander and chilli. Plus, it's got the acidity to stand up to citrus and salad dressings.

Although often drunk as an aperitif, in its dry versions, rose is another style that goes with lots of different dishes: from darker fleshed fish to many vegetable based dishes, soups to salads, ham to rabbit and curries and cuisines with a chilli kick.

Felton Road Central Otago Dry Riesling 2009 $29

Felton Road consistently make some of the country's most exciting rieslings and its latest vintage is no exception. Some dry rieslings can be a touch austere in their youth, but while this would certainly warrant cellaring, the 2009 is drinking well now, with its exhilaratingly citrussy, minerally core enclosed by fleshy peach fruit and laced with pretty honeysuckle florals and hints of ginger. Made biodynamically, it's also a great wine to get out for your greenie guests. (From Caro's, Fine Wine Delivery Company, First Glass.)

Tarras Vineyards Central Otago Pinot Noir Rose 2009 $23.50

The prettiest of pinks, this dry Central Otago rose is what the best examples of the style are all about: fabulously fresh and redolent of wild strawberries, raspberries and cream. Great by itself and dry enough to partner a plethora of foods. (From Wine Direct.)

TALKING TURKEY

Richly textured whites are the best matches for the traditional roast turkey. A top end chardonnay is just the ticket, such as a bigger styled burgundy or one of our top chardonnays. These are best with the breast, while the darker leg meat can require a softer textured red, such as pinot noir or merlot.

Dog Point Marlborough Chardonnay 2007 $34.50

The Dog Point Marlborough Chardonnay has the power to partner turkey plus the refinement to earn its place as one of the country's top examples of the variety, with the 2007 arguably the estate's best so far. A thrilling line of citrus and mineral drives through its focused palate, fusing with elegant white peach and lightly toasty oak. (From Artisan Fine Wine Suppliers, Balmoral Wines & Spirits, Caro's, Farro Fresh, Glengarry, Greenhithe Liquor, Kingsland Liquor Centre, Kumeu Cellars, La Barrique.)

GREAT WITH GAME
Pinot noir is an incredibly food-friendly red, compatible with dishes that run the gamut from mushrooms and meatier fishes, such as tuna and salmon, through to game birds and the spring lamb likely to grace many a Kiwi Christmas table.

Black Estate Omihi Waipara Pinot Noir 2006 $39.95

Under new ownership and now employing the talents of Daniel Schuster winemaker Nicolas Brown, Waipara's Black Estate is still sourcing its grapes from some of Waipara's older vines. These are reflected in the concentration of its sleek and savoury pinot noir, with its rich, dark cherry fruit, tangy acidity, spice and complex earthy, gamey, minerally backbone. (Available over Christmas in special hand-wrapped packaging from blackestate.co.nz and Caro's or unwrapped from Village Wines, Wine Vault, Blend, Grapes Wines.)

MEAT MATES
Red meats require feistier, fuller-bodied fare - think cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah and malbec. Bordeaux blends make a classic combination with roast lamb and beef, but if it's been on the barbecue you'll need a softer, sweetly fruited red such as an Aussie shiraz.

Redd Gravels Blake Family Vineyard 2006 $80

The previous vintage of this Gimblett Gravels merlot and cabernet franc blend came top in a blind tasting that pitched it against some of the great red blends of Bordeaux. The new vintage is another first-class wine, with firm but fine tannins and layered with concentrated dark berry fruit, chocolate, hints of cedary cigar box oak over an underlying minerally character. The Blake Family have sold their Hawkes Bay vineyard to focus on making wine in the Napa Valley, so this limited release is their last but one vintage. (From Caro's, Scenic Cellars.)

Millton Crazy by Nature Cosmo Red Gisborne 2007 $19.90

People thought the Milltons were crazy when they pioneered organic winegrowing in New Zealand - 25 years later and it's a trend that's gathering real momentum. This unusual blend of malbec, syrah and viognier, released on their new competitively priced organic Crazy by Nature label, is a little bit wacky too. But it works, resulting in a wine with an intriguing spicy, musky nose and palate that's packed with ripe, juicy black plum fruit, notes of grilled meat and plenty of peppery spice that begs to be paired with venison or barbecued meats. (From Village Winery, Mairangi Bay Wines, Advintage, Hillsdene Wines, Wines and More.)

Domino de Tares Baltos Bierzo Mencia, Spain 2007 $39.90

Just as giving Dad socks again for Christmas reveals a distinct deficit on the imagination front, you shouldn't just stick to what you know over the festive season. Climb out of that comfort zone and try something like the Baltos, made from Spain's sexiest red grape, mencia. Another wine made for savouring with something meaty, it's from the up-and-coming Bierzo region and has bags of fresh and supple dark berry fruit over earthy, minerally undertones and a very intriguing suggestion of lavender. (From Glengarry.)

LOW-ALCOHOL OPTION
Not everyone's up for 13 per cent plus wines, especially over extended periods of imbibing on the big day, so source some lighter options, such as lower alcohol rieslings or moscatos.

Villa M Italy 2008 $33

This is a gently spritzy moscato from Italy's Piedmont region with a diminutive 5 per cent alcohol. Soft and sweet, it tastes of fresh grapes and pears infused with blossom and subtle hints of sherbet lemon. Superb solo, it would also make a great match with fruit based desserts like pavlova and act as a lighter accompaniment to Christmas pud and mince pies. (From Glengarry.)

SWEET TREATS
If you've still got room, it's time to bring on the stickies to pair with the rich Christmas cakes and puddings - Rutherglen Muscat, sweeter sherries and rich madeira all hit the right mark. Although some consider pairing such ultra sweet desserts with a similarly sweet wine as overkill, 'tis the season of excess and engineering a synergy between their levels of sweetness can work rather well. Or you could forgo dessert altogether and just stick with a stickie, which can often be like Christmas pudding in glass!

Lustau Solera Reserva Pedro Ximenez Sherry "San Emilio", Spain (375ml) $36.50

Pronounced pedro himineth, which is almost as much of a mouthful as this ultra sweet style of sherry itself (it's okay to call it PX for short). Made from dried grapes, whose fermentation has been arrested by the addition of brandy, Lustau's luscious San Emiliano is oozing rich sultana, prunes and figs lifted by a fresh note of candied peel and finishing on a deliciously nutty note. (From Accent on Wine, Caro's, Hamilton Wine Company, The Village Winery.)