Fashion Week: Timely look back in wonder

International model Alice Burdeu from August Models & Talent walks the runway in the Retrospective Show. Photo / Babiche Martens

With many designers this week looking back for inspiration, it was the industry's turn to celebrate its past with the 10 year NZ Fashion Week Retrospective show last night.

Featuring 80 outfits from 40 designers who have shown at previous fashion weeks the show acted as a trip down memory lane for many in the audience, with Kate Sylvester's blue lace dress from her Stop Your Sobbing show in 2005, World's hot pink sculptured dress from 2005, Zambesi's floor length leather dress from 2002, Carlson's dramatic gowns from 2006 and more recent standouts like Jimmy D's cobweb print from 2006 and pieces from Alexandra Owen's debut in 2008. The show ended with flowers for NZFW founder Pieter Stewart and daughter Myken as a thank you for their commitment to New Zealand fashion.

The show reflected memorable moments throughout NZFW's history, moments that have felt somewhat lacking at this year's event. International "VIP" guests have been very low key, several shows have had plenty of empty seats and sponsorship deals have been everywhere; probably a reflection of the current economic climate and the event's roots as a trade show.

There have been a few shows with genuine buzz - namely Kathryn Wilson's debut shoe show, Salasai's presentation at the Hilton and Stolen Girlfriends Club show that had guests snaking a line up the street, but overall the event has lacked the usual level of glamour.

The last day began with a display of indigenous Maori fashion at the Miromoda show, with the seven winners of the awards presenting their collections after a performance from violinist Adam Maha and body art from Caroline Viesnik.

Aroha Wikoti, with her label Shikoba, showed a range of easy wear separates, with New Zealand motifs, while Ana Hau's collection featured traditional luxe, with her oversized butterfly wings proving a winner. .

Adrienne Whitewood's collection focused on relaxed silhouettes and fabrics, and Shona Tawhiao offered a contemporary take on traditional weaving, inspired by "traditional warrior wear".

Amber Bridgman based her collection around mythical Maori super heroes, with capelets, trains worn over the shoulder, and cute T-shirt prints from Kereama Taepa gave a Maori makeover to pop culture icons like a smiley face with moko, Terminator logo, and a pixelated marae. Menswear imbued with a sense of nostalgia from young designer Blaire Archibald was a highlight, with earthy tones, baggy trousers, oversized shirting, preppy sweaters with crests and some great bags made in collaboration with Matt Nash.

Blak followed with a collection that brought designer Teresa Hodges' sister labels Blak Basics and Blak Luxe together. The collection, called Skin Deep, featured variations on some of the key trends of the week, including velvet, full-length dresses, fur and subtle colours. It was about the contrast of light and dark, leather with lace, flowing fabrics alongside suede and velvet, black alongside pretty nudes, tans and bright red.

The best dressed and cutest crowd of the week were at Trelise Cooper Kids. The set featured stuffed toadstools and a windmill, while adorable models walked the runway in leopard print, polka dots, ruffled dresses, flower appliqued skirts, mini versions of some of the pieces from Cooper's show earlier this week including a padded jacket with ruffles, and a dress with sequin bow that looked eerily similar to a recent Marc Jacobs design. NZ's Next Top Model Christobelle also made an appearance, as part of a puzzling ending that tied in with Cooper's sponsorship with Barbie.

Huffer closed the week with its outdoor show at the University of Auckland Business School; the invitation telling guests to "please wrap yourself up in toasty warm goodness and do a dance to warn off the local rain god". The show acted as a debut for new Huffer womenswear designer Aimee McFarlane, whose feminine aesthetic was evident throughout the collection - their take on the oh-so-pretty trend that's prevailed this week.

Inspirational stuff

The most expensive item on the runway this week? The kakahu or feather cloak worn by violinist Adam Maha at the start of the Miramoda show yesterday afternoon. The cloak, on loan from the Waikato Museum, is valued at $100,000 and made from a range of feathers including kiwi, weka and pukeko. It was created by Diggeress Rangituatahi Te Kanawa.

Keeping it in the family

Abbie Martin and her brother Zach Vickers both walked at New Zealand Fashion Week. Abbie was one of the models at The Carpenters Daughter, while Zach walked for Crane Brothers, Zambesi and the Designer Collection. Zach works as a professional on the international scene and is signed with agencies Priscilla's in Sydney and Elite in Milan.

The word so far ...

"I have been shocked by what a world-class market you have here, people just don't know about it. The talent here is so vast for such a small country. I'm taking home with me some NeverBlack pieces, some Hailwood jewellery and a duvet which I bought at The Front Store and will wear to the Huffer show." - Derek Warburton, US Fashion Guru

"We're talking to a new company in Asia about distribution through China and India - two important markets if you want to build a global business, which is all part of our plan." - Alex Brandon, CEO Trelise Cooper

"The atmosphere this year is probably indicative of the current economic crisis, it has been disappointing to see shows with empty seats. The highlight was the Kathryn Wilson show. The hype surrounding the show was really great to see." - Buyer Hamish Thomas of Thomas's, Marlborough

"We have picked up at least six new stockists here and in Australia. The show has reinforced our place as consistent investment for our current stockists. We have also received recognition for the collection on both local and international sites and blogs." - Designer Anjali Stewart, Twenty-Seven Names

"There have been a lot of very commercial ranges with very saleable pieces. I think generally designers have played it safe by not taking any risks or pushing boundaries with fabrication etc. This is probably a reflection of the current economy."- Buyer Tanya Carlson of Carlson, Ponsonby