Fashion treasure hunt in the provinces

Waihi Vintage clothing and antique store, In Vogue. Picture / Carolyn Robertson

For those Aucklanders spending the summer impaled on a couch by a weighty read like Robert Fisk's The Great War for Civilisation, it's perfectly acceptable to sideline Middle East intrigue for a day's retail therapy. And for those who've been occupying the shopping Meccas on a daily basis, well, there's only one option. Step outside the safety zone of boutique enclaves, hermetically-sealed malls and risk a foray into new shopping territories. It's called day tripping, a return ticket to the retail delights of the provinces.

This day tripper narrowed the travelling time to two hours in any direction from Auckland, allowing sufficient energy for shopping.

Anything beyond this time, and you get scratchy at the sound of ringing tills. First a confession; my retail tour of the provinces wasn't carried out with military precision. It was a meandering journey, involving several unplanned detours, with non-certified personnel in the back seat demanding stopovers. I set out to find a handful of memorable shops, and as suspected, they were are distinguished by owners with memorable personalities. The owners of these shops all had the courage to do something original in towns they loved - and they should be celebrated. The many other shops en-route will have to keep for the next tour of duty.

An observation; there's plenty of retail variety beyond the Bombays and the wild chooks that hang out at Pohuehue viaduct. A few tips for day trippers: depart early, shop hard and schedule food breaks. Leave enough time for the journey home, or horrors, you could be trapped in the provinces overnight.

BEARING NORTH

Global Village Antiques & Collectables, Helensville
John Perry was director of Rotorua Museum for 20 years, and he's still a keeper of history in Helensville. This is not your normal antique shop, it's a shop that thinks it's a museum. Global Village is housed in a magnificent art deco picture theatre, although Perry confines his wares to the small auditorium of The Regent. His criteria for antiques and collectables is equally select. It has to be outstanding, extra-ordinary and unusual. Displays of "Maoriana", complete with pseudo-Goldie artwork, sit alongside impressive collections of Staffordshire china, and folk art. Serious collectors will appreciate the 1721 oak-press cupboard from England, and the alluring late 19th century portrait of Wyatt Earp's wife. But everyone appreciates the giant pair of elephant molars and the elaborately carved clubs. Perry and partner Anne-Marie Davis, say Helensville is a town that celebrates and preserves its history - and clearly they feel right at home.

Where: The Regent, 14 Garfield Rd, Helensville, Phone: (09) 420 9149.

Open: Wed-Sun 10am-5pm. Or by appointment.

Places To Eat: For a classic and cheap brunch in art deco splendour, pop next door to Cafe Regent. Saturday nights, movies while you dine.

Mrs Jones, Warkworth
In London, Bob Gilhooly and John McClenaghan ran a successful Pimlico Rd antique store for 16 years, attracting the likes of Charles Saatchi and Rod Stewart. They returned home with several containers of English antiques and opened and antiques showroom McClenaghan in Mairangi Bay in 2003 for a year. But their willingness to celebrate New Zealandness with a sense of humour saw them open Mrs Jones, which cleverly mixes antiques, retro and Kiwiana. You'll find New Zealand-made, 60's inspired Punga vases alongside an impressive 19th century English sideboard. For those still lucky enough to own a bach, there are plenty of appealing pieces. Particular favourites; dinky Duraware cups and an impressive ship's anchor.

Where: 17 Elizabeth St, Warkworth, Phone (09) 422 3275.

Open: Tue-Fri 10am-5pm. Sat 10am-4pm. Sun 12pm-4pm.

And around ...
The other picks for Warkworth are Revival Clothing at 3 Alnwick St for neat-as-a-pin recycled clothing and Taste - trading from an old grocery store at 2 Neville St - for the best cookware, and speciality foods.

Heading to Matakana and Milford House Linen at 463 Matakana Rd has hand-embroidered and hemstitched Egyptian cotton bed linen, and there are original prints at Ingrid Anderson Textile Design at 44 Guy Rd, Kaipara Flats, ph (09) 422 4000.

If you're travelling with a bloke, impress him with a stopover at Second Hand Traders, 3 Station Rd, Wellsford. This shop has the neatest collection of tools and bric-a-brac.

Places to eat: The Meeting House (Whare Nui) in Warkworth succeeds where many eateries have failed, fusing traditional kai with contemporary flavours. If you like sea views with your seafood, Cafe Sandspit is so close it overhangs the sea wall. Leisurely atmosphere and good food; romance guaranteed on a full moon and high tide. For real Devonshire teas served by an Englishman, the Puhoi Cottage Tea Rooms is a must. Also, try the Matakana Village Farmers' Market, on Saturday morning.

JillANG, Hamilton
Sisters Jillian and Angela Thompson must see the irony in calling a recent collection "Small Town Girl". Just before Viva embarked on this tour, there were rumours of a dress that celebrated the waist. There were sightings of satisfied customers in Sydney, New York and Hamilton. If there was a movement to undermine the skinny jeans trend, it was centered in the Waikato district. The label's signature style is 50's brightly-patterned cotton dresses with contemporary flair. And these sisters possess the technical nous to transform a genuine 50's garment (with its constricting waistline and peep-hole armholes) into modern day, womanly proportions. Graduates of East Sydney's TAFE fashion training centre, the sisters sold their wares in Paddington Market before moving on to retail outlets in Australia and Sag Harbor in New York. After decades in Sydney, the sisters moved back to their home town of Hamilton in 2001. Their shop in Casabella Lane - the mini Italy of Hamilton - also features ball gowns and evening dresses. 

Where: Shop 11, Casabella Lane, 307 Barton St, Hamilton, Phone: (07) 839 6389.

Open: Tue-Fri 11am-5pm, Sat 11am-3pm

And around...
Before you leave Hamilton it's also worth checking out Remains to be Scene for vintage clothing and other curios at 19a Hood St, Hamilton, Phone: (07) 839 3086.

Heading east, it's worth checking out the Ngatea Antiques & Curios at 38 Orchard West Rd in Ngatea for the lovely range of retro-styled Hawaiian shirts and other Pacific gems. Passing through Thames, you can't miss the three, nicely stuffed, brown bears guarding the window of The Chocolate Shoppe at 748 Pollen St. Delectable sweet things inside.

In Vogue, Waihi
I'm loath to reveal the whereabouts of this shop, such is the quality of its vintage clothes collection. But chanteuse Bic Runga recently discovered In Vogue, and no doubt she'll be singing its praises nationwide. In 1995, Kathleen and Stan Blackmore-Palmer moved to gold-mining town Waihi, bought the art-deco local picture theatre and filled it with an impressive range of ladies and gents vintage clothes, jewellery, accessories and glamorous gowns from all decades. Every rack and shelf is stuffed with interesting finds; furs from a French countess and a stunning collection of dresses discarded by a former ballroom dancing champion from the 1930s. Blackmore-Palmer sources her vintage clothing from America, London and other secret places. One can only imagine where she got the hand-stitched 1940's Kimono or the sassy 1920s Brocade silver shoes from Clarks of England. The couple have a long history of running antique fairs in England and New Zealand. "It's in the blood and it's hard to stop yourself. My personal [clothes] collection is just as big as the shop's." 

Where: 40 Rosemont R d, Waihi, Phone: (07) 863 9366.

Open: Tue-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-1pm. And around... Stephanie Rattray is Kathleen's sister - and also a long-time devotee of all things vintage. Her shop, Stephanie Rattray's Vintage Apparel specialises in period jewellery, hats, clothes and handbags. Definitely worth a look-see.

At Nesting Box, Frances Flaherty offers a slice of France in a town once populated by rough-and-ready gold miners. The blue-fronted shop is modelled on an authentic French country shop, and is chock full of homeware and gifts.

Places to eat: Waitete Restaurant, Cafe and Ice Creamery in Waihi offers cool treats in an orchard setting with French chic and also kiwi New Zealand flavours.

Page 74, Tauranga
Jo Page is one of those stylish, ex-model types you'd secretly envy, if she wasn't so passionate about transforming you into a gorgeous being. As owner of Page 74, she's created a fashion beacon in a seaside town where leisure wear is mostly de rigueur. Page describes this up-market store as industrial gothic and indeed, it's equal to any fashion shop you'll see on High Street. With her fashion connections, she's secured all the right labels: Zambesi, Nom*D, Pearl, Cybele, Standard Issue and more. Page started modelling during the late 60s with such photography legends such as Desmond Williams and Roger Donaldson (now a Hollywood director). During her 10-year career, Page modelled the top labels in Sydney, Asia, and London. In 1977, the Page family moved to Tauranga, with Jo keeping in her hand in the local fashion scene. In 2003, she opened Page 74 with the aim of keeping the range exclusive. "We only buy a small amount of any one style - we want people to feel special."

Where: 74 First Ave, Tauranga, Phone: (07) 579 0074.

Open: 10-5pm weekdays, Sat 10-3pm.

Places to eat: Remember The Kestrel, the old Takapuna ferry? Well now it's a restaurant and moored in Tauranga harbour.

Jet Collective, Raglan
Raglan is another hot destination and Jet Collective is a must-see. Hayley Hamilton, Claire Arden, Chris and Shelley Meek are the local artists behind this collective. Their dinky shop is the sounding board for our work and the public are certainly listening. This design and art space features an eclectic mix of New Zealand-made ceramics, paintings and jewellery.

Where: Bow St, Raglan, Phone: (07) 825 8566.

Open: 10am-4pm, except Tuesdays.

Places to eat: Aqua Velvet Cafe for delectable home-made goodies and good coffee.

Out There, Waiheke
It's just a ferry-ride away, and technically still in Auckland's circle but Out There in Waiheke Island lives up to its name. It's difficult to find a surf shop owned and operated by a family that genuinely loves surfing. Most teens only surf Amazon in the malls. Waiheke residents for the past 25 years, the McDonald family set up Out There in 1995 because there was no where to buy surfing wax. Joy McDonald's dicky knee means she can no longer surf, but her husband and daughters are still keen wave riders. Their passion for the sport is reflected in their passion for New Zealand-made brands. They stock Federation and Huffer, and frequently have styles which have sold out in Auckland's CBD.

Where: 21 Belgium St, Ostend, Waiheke Island, phone: 372 6528

Open: Mon-Wed 9pm-5pm; Thurs and Fri open till 6pm. Sun 10am-4pm.