Expert Eye: Turet Knuefermann, Liz Mitchell, Mena and Whiri 2010

Designer Turet Knuefermann. Photo / Supplied

In the early years of Fashion Week Turet Knuefermann staged a spectacular outdoor show on an overhead walkway at Victoria Park Market for her then IPG label.

Her body-conscious cuts marked her as outside the norm of New Zealand fashion and indeed she's quietly carved herself a market in southern Europe, where the sharp simplicity of her draped designs strike a chord.

This was her first local runway outing for some time and it looked assured, standing out boldy in a group show that lacked thematic links between diverse designers.

Nude, black and bronze were the colours of choice, with a raspberry silk stunner punctuating the parade of asymetric and draped dresses, accessorised with long jewelled necklaces by Sierra Reed.

Knueffermann also offered a masterclass in modern fabric choice, with neo leather, sueded effect cloth, a satin stretch knit and feathery faux fur.

Liz Mitchell is another designer who has been off the Fashion Week radar since staging a red carpet solo show some years back.

Having battled business woes it was good to see her back at her craft, reminding audience that she can tailor with the best of them.

Her show finished with a spectacular 50s-style russet ball gown, but suffered from an uneasy mix of grown-up casual, ladies who lunch suiting and the evening wear she is best known for.

We skipped from a charcoal cabled hoodie cardi, to a navy panelled jacket and trousers to a strapless magenta chiffon number.

For the Whiri and Mena labels, fabric choice best defined their looks. Mena showed a tropical palm leaf print and an orchid extravaganza on a series of garments. The leaf worked best on a grey on black jacket.

Whiri's Maori motifs included straps and belt loops picked out against black in a weave pattern and a striking black on white moko fabric design, most effective in a silk tunic dress.