Expert Eye: Miromoda 2010

A model showcases designs on the catwalk by Ana Hau during the Miromoda collection show. Photo / Getty Images

Pacman with a moko and Superman with the famous S symbol picked out in a carved pattern where just some of the nice twists modernising Maori design at the Miro Moda show.

From assured men's wear in earthy tones to obvious ethnic imagery, through to World of Wearable Arts stunners gone native, this was a visually interesting group show.

It began with a violin performance by Adam Maha, wearing a feathered cloak valued at $100,000 and on loan from Waikato Museum.

The cloak of kiwi, weka and pukeko feathers was made by renowned Diggress Rangituatahi Te Kanawa, mother of one of the show's organisers, Ata Te Kanawa.

Feathers also showed up in the work of some of the seven designers showcased.

The second Miromoda show at Fashion pulls together Maori design under the auspices of the Indigienous Maori Fashion Apparel Board.

First up was Aroha Wikotu who used subtle native flora imagery on casual wear in colours drawn from the bush, including a hooded capelet and jacket.

Ana Hau made a dramatic cut away floor-sweeping coat and a jacket in the same black on grey print, the took the drama to extremes with an asymetric dress accessorised by giant butterfly wings.

Blaire Archibald's menswear had a 40s feel with inspiration drawn from photographs of his grandfather, a Maori All Black. The pants were full and pleated, narrowing at the ankle. He also showed knee-length shirts and a sleeveless coat in earthy tones and is a promising talent.

Adrienne Whitewood played with cowls, looping them down to waist level in a navy silk velvet jacket.

Kereama Taepa clearly has a love of computer games, reinterpeting Pacman symbols on T-shirting which also featured a gold moko face. He reappropriated the moko, putting it on a smiley face logo on a sweater dress and a man's hoodie top.

Amber Bridgman used feathers as trim on skirts and for neckpieces. Tui tones were picked up in a teal silk capelet. Her simple merino wrap dresses featured a leather arm inset printed with koru-type swirls and she doctored the Batman and Superman logos with Maori motifs.

Shona Taiwhiao's dramatic woven pieces were a fitting end to the show. Flax lattice weave was crafted into skirts, one with a trailing sting in the tail and a bustier with an exaggerated point emerging from the bodice. The look was crowned with an Etruscan-style helmet, again woven.