Expert Eye: Juliette Hogan 2010

A model wears a creation by Juliette Hogan on day one of New Zealand Fashion Week 2010. Photo / Getty Images

Juliette Hogan gave prim, proper and pretty a nudge, showing a grown-up range with a tougher twist. It was time for the well-regarded young designer to step up and she did so while remaining true to her talent for lady-like tailoring.

By hiking hems, adding in bone and black leather pieces reminiscent of Celine's simply shapes, and darkening her colour palette, the look for winter 2011 was stronger, but no less refined.

In recent collections Hogan has clung with Mormon-like commitment to buttoned up, pussy bow blouses, tunic dresses and knife-pleated skirts. These signature pieces rightly remained, but were joined by others styled with an edgier aesthetic.

A one-shoulder fitted dress was almost a step too far from the familiar, but using leather elegantly struck just the right note. Waiting lists will form for the collarless jacket and cropped leather T with zipped back.

The so-called layer-cake shift dress and a mini made in a scalloped fabric shown first in peach, cream and grey then later in smoky grey and blue tones illustrated Hogan's assured colour palette beautifully.

Similar muted but not insipid tones were used in a vintage floral georgette print. Bone, donkey brown and khaki also figured, with black softened by lace. Little knit sweaters fitted the mood.

A navy and cream spotted dress for the haute housewife was right on retro trend, but mining fashion's current preoccupation with a feminine feel with a nod to the best of American classicism seemed more modern.

There was a houndstooth check like my mother wore in the 1970s. This was belted into an above-the-knee double-breasted trench coat and shown short with a skirt with inverted front pleats.

The show was called The Morning After the Night Before, with Hogan determined to add a little naughty to her usual nice. She pulled this off without any loss of poise.