Alexandra Owen was annointed the next big thing a few years back and deservedly so with some stunning tailoring, sculptural showpieces and the most refined of fabrics.
She was invited to show in New York and at her second outing this month drew praise, so anticipation about her next collection was high.
The fine crafting was there, and so too the same long line jackets, and her rather academic approach to design. You get the impression she enjoys the technical trickery, but at times this gets in the way of wearability.
Padded shawl collars, bib-like draped bubbles on a dress and saddle bag pockets may have an arty appeal and be masterfully executed, but they're not going to pull in the corporate crowd who can afford her workmanship.
A clever pin-tucking trick she used throughout of creating a diamond shape design on fabric did work well, and was seen on dresses, pencil skirts and skinny pants, making for special wool suiting.
