Euro

By EWAN McDONALD for Viva

Ramsay is one. Wolfgang Puck is another. Conran, Marco Pierre White, the Roux brothers, Neil Perry ... if this is the age of celebrity chefs it's also the era of celebrity restaurant owners. For corporate warriors like Eric Watson, a restaurant might be another toy. Barry Colman, in greatcoat and scarf, has pulled pints at his Dunedin pub. It's a tough business: both Colman and Watson have been burned on Auckland's waterfront.

Among restaurant owners in this part of the world, none has attracted the headlines and gossip-column celebrity of Euro's founder. From Herald files: Euro owner charged over row at rival eatery; Cup sailors too scruffy for quayside's fancy repasts; 'Watch this' dive ends in tragedy. What is often overlooked is that Leo Molloy nurtured a serious kitchen, encouraged (by whatever means) a unique style and standard of service and created a remarkable restaurant. It laid a benchmark - perhaps a watermark - for the Viaduct. You don't rate a place on the Conde Nast Traveler's annual hotlist by dumping steak and eggs on a greasy table.

Molloy has moved on and Euro has been under new management for a few months: Richard Sigley, associated with Molloy at Danny Doolan's Irish pubs, headquartered nearby; and Brian Fitzgerald, a Wellington businessman who has interests in at least one pub, the well-known Backbencher across the road from Parliament. Danny Doolan's and the Backbencher? Does this fit a posh place whose former host once proclaimed: "No single people are allowed into the Euro bar unless they look rich."

At one time our foursome might have entered with trepidation - there was a journalist, an unloved breed; Tony, a league man, and the game has an unfortunate history at Euro; Ann and Pat, who are women, and ditto - but not now. On a Friday night, the bar side was filled with the usual collection of suits and cellphones, a little fewer since it is winter and the shoal has moved on to Soul. So the restaurant side is a little quieter as the evening wears on. No bad thing.

The menu retains its mission statement of "good food, healthy and honest food, simple but elegant, traditional, flavoursome food, easy on the eye and the palate", which probably sums up what most chefs aim to do. On another corner Somerset Maugham suggests that "At a dinner party one should eat wisely but not too well, and talk well but not too wisely." One wonders if the chef Eugene Hamilton was consulted about the quote. Surely it can't have been why he resigned recently leaving Euro short.

Diners are encouraged to dip into a number of cultures through the meal. Skim the entrees: Waikanae crab with jalapeno creme fraiche, wasabi caviar, tuna wafers; the triumph, crayfish and foie gras, truffled pommes parisienne, fresh mango, vine-ripened tomatoes and guava syrup. I think I'm safe in saying that's the only $29.50 entree in town.

Ann only orders dishes like duck, that require the ministrations of an expertly trained chef, in a good restaurant. She was thrilled with the crisp, rotisseried bird, accompanied with bok choy, glistening under a mandarin plum glaze and szechuan seasoning. My pork fillet (smoked paprika blini, apple-onion tart tatin, cress sauce) had spent a few minutes too long chatting to the chargriller and was drying out. The eye fillet and scallops side of the table was happy.

Euro's cellar is wide, deep, patriotic (apart from the champagnes, deeper reds and Old World varietals) and expensive, though diners can safely navigate their way by the glass.

It's been written that the staff's attention depends on the customer's accent or currency of their credit card (mind you, that magazine said Euro was "deservedly well known for its terrific service" a month before). Gary A was attentive, knowledgeable, arch and made sure we had a good evening - without wanting to be our new best friend.

Open: 7 days, noon till late

Owners: Richard Sigley, Brian Fitzgerald

Food: Food Pacific Rim

Smoking: Bar area only

Wine: Extensive and expensive

Noise: Chatter and clatter, no music

Cost (mains for two): $65plus

Vegetarian: Not on menu

Bottom line: Four months under new management and with a new chef on the way, the ever-so-cool- bar-restaurant retains the commitment to quality food and wine with elegant service that have earned kudos at home and internationally.

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