Ethically Kate: Is vegan leather really a good thing for the environment?

'Vegan' leather can be made from plant fibre or plastic. Photo / 123RF

OPINION

Sustainability author Kate Hall says not all vegan leathers are created equal.

Vegan leather can be literally made from anything; the term simply means that it’s not made out of animal products (namely, their skin). I have a vegan leather handbag made from cacti and a purse made from pineapple leather.

I’ve also seen vegan leather made from apples, cork, and other fruit waste. I know this sounds exciting and leads you to believe that vegan leather is sustainable, but unfortunately most vegan leather is not made from these materials.

Most vegan leather is plastic. Specifically, vegan leather is usually made from polyurethane and polyvinyl chloride, also known as PU and PVC.

So, when a brand tells me their bag is vegan leather and far more sustainable than my animal leather handbag that was made from hides which were a by-product of the meat industry and would have otherwise been discarded, I disagree with them.

Vegan leather can be a solution for people who do not want to have animal products in their lives, but it’s often not the solution to sustainable fabric.

When you’re considering what type of leather to opt for in a garment or product, choose with your own values, but don’t fall for the “it’s vegan so it’s sustainable” rhetoric.

For example, you know those belts that crumble and shoes that begin dropping little bits with every step? They’re made from plastic. Vegan leather usually doesn’t age or wear as well as animal hide. This increases your cost per use and means the item will end up in landfill far quicker. Does this sound sustainable to you?

I’m not saying you should drop your animal welfare values and only wear cow skins. But when you’re buying something, look past the mask of the “vegan leather” label and ask what it’s made from. And if you’re entranced by the concept of cacti and pineapple leather, check out the brand Velvet Heartbeat - in Auckland we’re lucky to have a local maker of sustainable vegan leather products.