The men you know may never have had anything professionally plucked. They probably haven't set foot in a spa or considered concealer for their under-eye bags. But anyone still holding on to the notion that real men don't moisturise is daft. While New Zealand may not be included in the top 10 boom markets for men's toiletries (Brazil is number one) or showing the same massive growth as say, China, we are certainly part of the booming blokes' beauty business, predicted by Euromonitor to reach well over $80 billion globally by 2020.
But now that we've established that blokes are getting keener on looking better-groomed, the question is: how? It's a cruel fact that most men look younger for longer than women and that they age differently. Men's skin is generally 25 per cent thicker than women's, oilier and blessed with better collagen content, and while they are likely to develop wrinkles on their foreheads and around the eyes as they age, they can retain relatively line-free mouths. One theory is that because they have beards they have extra sebaceous glands, which cause the skin around the mouth to be thicker and less flexible. Less movement = fewer lines. Another is that constant shaving acts in the same way as diligent exfoliation - every time he picks up the razor he's giving himself a good buff and polish, smoothing the skin and nixing pore-clogging dead cells. Not a regular shaver? A beard is likely to reduce the amount of UV he's exposed to, minimising sun damage - the main cause of wrinkles.
But, ageing advantages aside, men's skin is still skin and equally in need as women's of basic skincare essentials, including sunscreen. Any good broad-spectrum block will do, but if he's looking for something on the manly side, try Triumph & Disaster's No Dice Sunscreen ($55), which is non-greasy, fast-absorbing and delivers an SPF50. Bonus points for containing green tea (for damage protection) and jojoba oil (for moisturisation).
On the subject of moisturiser, despite the differences in his skin, he can still use hers. He is, however, less likely to be impressed if it smells pretty, is made of pure rose oil and hails from Grasse, in France. Women's products also cater to the fact that women have thinner skin, lose moisture more quickly and are slightly more susceptible to photo-damage at an earlier age. Men's moisturisers are cheaper, fragrance-free and designed to soothe irritation from shaving. At the luxe end of the scale is L'Occitane's Cade Complete Care Moisturiser ($79), which contains cade oil and oat extract to lube and calm, and beechwood and birch to firm and regenerate.
When it comes to a fuss-free shave, gels and balms will protect the skin and keep it feeling comfortable. A good option is Dermalogica's Close Shave Oil ($46). It provides a barrier between skin and shaver, preventing nicks, cuts and redness. Natio for Men's Soothing Shave Cream ($13.50) will reduce razor clog and plump whiskers for a closer shave. For a fuss-free cleanse, keep products like Nivea For Men's Skin Energy Face Wash ($10) in the shower.
