What's cooking: Iain Hewitson

Iain Hewitson says cooking fresh ingredients simply is about the hardest kitchen task.

Iain Hewitson is a New Zealand-born celebrity chef and restaurateur who has spent more than 30 years in the business.

He's a household name in Australia, where people eat in his restaurants, watch him on the telly, read his books, cook with his utensils and eat his brand of sauce.

He comes from a family with a keen interest in food and was introduced to the industry by his elder brother, Don, who for the past 28 years has owned and operated some leading London wine bars and restaurants.

Hewitson's initial involvement in kitchens was not in a position of great prestige. At the time he was masquerading as a guitarist in various bands, including New Zealand Battle of the Bands winners Cellophone and Sebastian's Floral Array.

In typical musician's style, there was much washing of restaurant dishes to keep body and soul together.

Fortunately, even in such a humble position, a flicker of talent was evident and he was soon elevated to the exalted position of salad hand. And, when lack of musical talent became evident, it seemed only logical to pursue a career as a chef. A passion for the restaurant business soon developed.

Arriving in Australia in 1972, Hewitson soon established himself as a leading chef.

In 1987, restaurant critic Stephen Downes described him as the most important Melbourne restaurateur of the 80s, and in 1990 The Age Good Food Guide included him as one of the top chefs of the decade.

Since 1997, restaurants have taken something of a back seat in his life. He still owns and operates St Kilda icon Tolarno Bar & Bistro in Fitzroy St, but much of his time has been spent touring the wine and food regions of Australia and the world.

In front of the camera, everything from burgers and fish and chips to kangaroo, paella and gumbo received the Hewitson treatment.

He started out on the lifestyle show Healthy, Wealthy & Wise and its offshoot A Cook's Journey, then moved on to his own shows, including and Never Trust a Skinny Cook.

What do you like about your job?

I'm a real food tourist. Forget sitting on the beach and the like, in my job I get the chance to explore the food culture of many different countries - and eat well too.

What is your favourite meal and why?

I like any food with guts - I get very bored if every spoonful tastes the same. Hence my love of highlights such as garlic, chillies, spices and anchovies.

What do you eat at home when you can't be bothered to cook?

I love sandwiches, but the bread has to be the best, such as sourdough, and the fillings have to be good, for example ham on the bone, home-grown tomatoes and homemade mayo. And let us not forget generosity - decent thick slices of bread and generous amounts of fillings and moistening agents.

What is always in your fridge?

A bottle of French champagne, a piece of Italian parmesan and a packet of unsalted butter.

What do you always have in your kitchen cupboards?

Lots of Asian ingredients such as soy sauce, fish sauce, curry pastes, oyster sauce and the like. Plus good Italian pasta and canned tomatoes.

Is there anything you refuse to eat, and why?

Tripe in white sauce because my mother cooked it for my dad and the whole house ended up smelling of it for days.

What is your idea of the perfect meal?

Beautiful fresh ingredients cooked simply, which is about the hardest thing to do. Anyone can whip up a meal with lots of ingredients, garnishes and sauces, which often obscure the fact that the prime ingredient is not that good or not cooked correctly. But to roast a good chicken perfectly - crisp skin and juicy flesh - is a lot harder task, especially if it's served just with the pan juices.

What food do you miss when you are away overseas?

Depending where I am, I do find it hard to survive without an Asian fix, which fortunately is in most cities. Except, from experience, in Barcelona - black-bean beef with a dob of garlic mayo on top. And in New Orleans - Chinese tea in McDonald's milkshake containers.