Seventies fashion by Prada, Celine, Marni and Karen Walker. Photo / Style.com
Seventies fashion by Prada, Celine, Marni and Karen Walker. Photo / Style.com
Opinion
Nothing has been more prevalent on the runways recently than the revival of the 70s in all its glory. Not since Phoebe Philo revived Celine and heralded the return to minimalism have we seen such a huge aesthetic shift. But why is the much-derided decade back? And why now?
Nostalgia is powerful
There's nothing more appealing than familiarity and nostalgia; we are instinctually drawn to textures, colours and silhouettes that evoke memories. Likewise we naturally romanticise the past, almost more so when the decade in question is a relatively recent occurrence. Meanwhile fashion's young, insatiable customer base recall photos of their parents in their prime, wearing the decade's flared jeans and leather jackets - appearing almost unrecognisably cool. The pre-internet age also invokes a sense of innate authenticity; consumption was slower and more local, with trends and pieces not just a click away. Ironically of course, this 70s revival has been sweeping both digital and print media like wildfire. The era also commands a certain integrity (or at least appearance of) that is carries through its style and aesthetics. Unlike the following decades, irony and jaded humour weren't notably prevalent in fashion or style; likewise the naivety of previous years had fallen away.
A fresh silhouette, not a moment too soon
The increasing pace, consumption and visibility of fashion content means that visual fatigue is overwhelming. Collections are presented, the images are spread across every possible media platform and key pieces are knocked off within weeks; we are bored and sick of the looks and ideas before they even hit magazines, let alone the designer's own boutiques. The overwhelming amount of knock-offs and homages (however legal) dilute and dull what was originally so exciting, to the point that it's no longer even palatable. Likewise homogenous pieces that are easy to both produce and wear become the uniform of choice - most notably the rise and rule of skinny jeans this past decade. The overwhelming popularity of an item like this leads one to seek out something new and fresh - with consciously or inadvertently.
One of the strengths of the 70s look, and probable reason why it's experiencing such a renaissance, is its dramatically different silhouette to what we have been used to seeing and wearing in recent years.
Flares are one of the key pieces to gain traction, offering a long overdue alternative to skinny jeans; of all the pieces from the current 70s renaissance, the flared jean is likely the one with the most longevity and worth investing in.
The new Louis Vuitton
After his debatably acrimonious departure from Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière's debut collection for Louis Vuitton a year ago saw him inadvertently kick start the fashion world's nostalgic mood. Highly crafted and conceptually executed pieces appeared in a silhouette that was decidedly reminiscent of the early 70s. A-Line skirts and turtleneck knits sat underneath zip front jackets and cinched coats, presenting an accessible contemplation on a contemporary woman's wardrobe and an appealingly strong, feminine silhouette - rendered in refreshingly unfeminine fabrics; even the colour palette was earthy and nostalgic. His collections since have served to reinforce this aesthetic, now a signature of the reinvented Vuitton; evolving this classic fit-and-flare silhouette and nostalgic mood with high-waisted flares, cinched jackets, velvet, pie-crust collars and a weirdly wonderful use of colour in the seasons that followed his debut. All of this (of course) executed with the experimental and advanced handwriting that made him famous during his tenure at Balenciaga.
Louis Vuitton Fall 14, Spring 15 , Resort 15, Spring 15. Photo / Style.com
Designers love a bandwagon (whether they intend to or not)
The funny thing with the fashion industry is designers tend to all land on a train of thought at once, whether unintentional or to actively maximise sales through a current trend.
J.W Anderson (probably one of the most inspiring and groundbreaking designers in the industry currently) was another to draw influence from the decade. First noticeable at his Resort 15 collection with zip front jackets, shades of dusty brown and a series of diagonally striped, tie-neck shirts (the latter of which also popped up again on the runway for his Spring menswear show, continuing the gender-fluid design that Anderson's renowned for). The mood kicked into high gear for his next two collections, with his architectural exploration of Seventies shapes and colours being executed in high-waisted flares, turtlenecks, cinched coats and wide collars.
J.W. Anderson Resort 15, Fall 14, PreFall 15, Spring 15. Photo / Style.com
Nearly all the key designers have presented their own spin on the 70s in recent seasons; from Miuccia Prada's contrast stitched denim flares, A-line coats and signature optical prints, to Phoebe Philo's weirdly wonderful use of retro colours at Céline, Rosetta Getty's nostalgic reinterpretation of classic American sportswear and the lush, louche flares at Marni. Locally, we see Karen Walker's infatuation with the decade continue, with suede and her longstanding love affair with a wide legged trouser both sitting alongside a riot of prints.
Naturally, the 70s look has promptly filtered down to mid-range, accessible brands like Zara, ASOS and Topshop - with more simple explorations of the trend appearing in the likes of denim flares, skinny turtlenecks and suede everything.
Prada PreFall 15, Celine Fall 15, Marni Fall 15, Karen Walker Fall 15. Photo / Style.com
The decade had indisputable style icons
Every fashion magazine, website, Tumblr and Instagram feed regularly cycles through lists of classic, indisputable style icons.
The style profiles, trend pages and re-posts of the likes of Jane Birkin, Bianca Jagger, Jerry Hall and Lauren Hutton reoccur at an almost fatiguing rate, yet somehow all hold on to their intriguing, timeless appeal. Most of these women were at their style peak in the early 70s, likely reinforced by the decade sitting in a Goldilocks period between the dusty tradition of the 50s and early 60s, and the more jarring modernity of the 80s. All of them also leaned towards somewhat timeless wardrobes, combining the glamour of the decade with timeless stalwarts like denim and white t-shirts - certainly a reason for their enduring appeal.
Jane Birkin and Brigette Bardot. Photo / Style.com, Lauren Hutton, Vogue.com
Now how to wear it... And should you?
Enjoy a fresh new silhouette without looking dated, and embrace shapes that flatter and textures that ask to be touched; limit yourself to subtle references and explore texture, or silhouette. Pair flared jeans with slim, simple jumpers - or wear a suede coat with a sleek knit dress. Boots are high in every sense of the word, with block heels the defining feature to set the new (old?) knee-high shape apart from its cousins. The difference lies in what you pair them with; rather than skinny jeans, invest in a knee length A-line skirt with a nipped in waist that's almost universally flattering. Also, obviously, wear a turtleneck with everything.
