Emma Gleason: Forget the meat, what about the bones?

Our country is one of the leading meat consumers in the world - something that is influenced by our cultural history, agricultural and relative privilege. Photo / Supplied

Whether you subscribe to a healthy food diet or are a fast food connoisseur, meat is the top of the food chain for most people. Western society (and in particular, New Zealand) eats far more meat than is deemed healthy or sustainable. Our country is one of the leading meat consumers in the world - something that is influenced by our cultural history, agricultural and relative privilege. Meat is an everyday luxury that shouldn't be, and we need to start informing our choices around it with regards to conscious consumption. Whilst we'll dig into a prime cut steak or fried chicken, rarely do we consider the rest of the beast. Nose to tail eating is both a new movement and harks back to a more traditional way of eating and approaching food; a return to tradition that embraces culinary simplicity.

The return to natural animal fats and influence of preindustrial cooking is an approach that's becoming more and more popular, as people search for nourishment that has authenticity and integrity. The importance of sourcing bones (and, obviously, meat) from healthy, grass-fed animals is obvious - whilst organic is the ideal. Although calorie dense, animal fats are both far better for you and more filling than refined carbohydrates.

Embrace rustic comfort foods wholeheartedly; celebrating both their healing qualities, traditional origins and the joy of sharing a humble meal, nurturing meal.

Bone broth

Healing and nurturing by nature, the liquid warmth of broth soothes the soul and body almost instantly - providing both comfort and nutrition. Although akin to a soup and basic broth, bone broth is thoroughly unique and linked to even more health benefits than its culinary cousins and experiencing a current revival as something of an "it food", buoyed by the popularity of nose to tail cooking and the health benefits of protein rich diets that are so popular right now.

Made with just bones, water, vegetables and seasoning, bone broths are a traditional foundation of cooking around the world. Thoroughly cheap, they are known for settling the stomach and the nerves with both nutritional qualities and their intrinsically comforting nature. Supremely rich in protein, minerals, and amino acids, bone broth supports skin and digestive health.

The key to this, and what sets it apart, is time and lots of it; simmered for over 24 hours, the breaking down of the bones releases minerals and the gelatine from collagen rich joints. Pre-roasting the bones adds a rich, hearty flavour to the broth, whilst adding an acid like wine or vinegar helps soften the bones and dissolve any tougher parts. Simultaneously light yet rich, it can be enjoyed on it's own once drained of all the precursor ingredients, or used as a base for nutritious additions like vegetables and barley. It's the ultimate weekend investment - to be tended to slowly over the stove all day, then enjoyed on a cold winter's night.

Bone marrow

There's nothing quite like experiencing the primal flavour and indulgent physicality of roasted bone marrow. Highly nutritious, energy rich and filling, roast bone marrow is famously beloved by chef Anthony Bourdain, who in fact refers to it as "God's butter".

With a rich, meaty flavour and a creamy consistency from the high fat content, once roasted marrow is a lush, gelatinous luxury; once roasted the sizzling marrow becomes soft and spreadable - ideal for adding to a toasted slice of sourdough or as a garnish. Rich in protein, essential fatty acids and lipids, alongside vitamins and minerals like calcium, iron, phosphorous, zinc, selenium, magnesium, manganese and Vitamin A; marrow is a culinary cocktail of goodness, linked to maintaining bone health and supporting the immune system.

Obviously far from an everyday food, marrow makes for a rich luscious meal to be indulged in intermittently - although the indulgent joy of it belies its cheap, rustic origins. Portion size is obviously small due to it's high calorie content however its rich, filling natures means you're more than satiated; that is the beauty of it, the inherent value and satisfaction of rustic eating.