Judith Tabron: Tart citron with fresh raspberries

Judith Tabron's Tart citron with fresh raspberries. Pictures / Carolyn Elliott

Our top chefs share their culinary secrets and favourite festive-season recipes

Judith Tabron: Owner, Soul Bistro and Bar

What was the first thing you cooked as a child?

Chocolate cake and I still remember the recipe as I made it so many times.

What do you like to drink?

Coffee (flat whites and only until lunch), water (mineral, filter or soda) in the afternoons. In the evening, dry pinot gris (New Zealand or Italian) and I have returned to the Marlborough sauvignon blanc after an absence of at least 10 years - especially with fresh fish dishes.

What do you always have in your fridge and kitchen cupboard?

Eggs, fresh basil, chorizo, salami, goat's cheese, sheep's cheese, salad ingredients, fresh vegetables and herbs, tomato sauce, Frescolini Pomodoro pasta sauce, olives, capers and unfinished bottles of wine.

Do you ever eat convenience food?

I very rarely eat takeaway fast food. However, if under pressure from family members, Wendy's would be our first choice so I can have the chicken salad or a baked potato with green salad.

What do you think is the most overused ingredient, and why?

Off-the-shelf pesto. It tastes nothing like the real thing made from fresh basil, good parmesan and good olive oil. As I can't trust the source of the pesto I never order a dish with it. I especially dislike it on tomatoes at breakfast or brunch. It ruins good tomatoes.

What are your three favourite ingredients?

Ripe vine tomatoes, crusty white bread and good extra virgin olive oil.

What is your favourite gadget?

I would have said my wine knife, but everything is screwtop these days.

Gordon Ramsay, Rick Stein, Nigella Lawson - who would you rather have cook for you, and why?

I'd love Gordon Ramsay to cook for me because he is a professionally trained chef, not a television chef - they can hide their mistakes, as they can always do another take. Anyway, Gordon would be more fun for me to argue over whether a women's place is in the kitchen or the bedroom.

What is your favourite food indulgence?

As many Bluff oysters as I can eat at any time during their season and cooked in any way I desire.

What would people be surprised to know about you?

I shoot straight from the hip, so there should be no surprises

What is the most ordered dish on your menu?

Salt and pepper squid with coriander and green chilli chutney (350 portions a week).

What are you cooking for Christmas Day?

The Christmas Day menu is a takeaway from Soul. I haven't told Peter the chef yet but when he reads this he'll know.

Where will you be, and who will you be spending time with?

Christmas is at our house and the family that are in New Zealand will be there. Grandparents, parents and children, 25 in total, aged 18 months to 80 years

Any tips on stress-free preparation for Christmas Day lunch?

A stress-free Christmas Day can be achieved by ordering-in. If this is not an option share the workload around the guests, use paper plates and write a roster for kitchen duties.

Your best idea for leftover Christmas ham or turkey?

I hate leftovers and live in fear of science projects in my fridge. The exception is honey-glazed ham, which is great for summer lunches with a variety of salads, or the very best ham and hot English mustard sandwich. I usually share any leftovers with the family.

Fill in the blanks. Vegan guests on Christmas Day are ...

painful. They should go outside, past the smokers and dogs, and pick their own.

TART CITRON WITH FRESH RASPBERRIES

Tart Pastry

125g butter
125g icing sugar
250g flour
2 eggs

Tart Filling

Juice and zest of 5 lemons
300g caster sugar
11 eggs
400ml cream
250g raspberries

For the filling, mix egg, sugar, zest and juice together. Add cream. Leave for 4 hours and pass through strainer to remove zest.

Prepare the pastry by creaming butter and sugar. Add eggs and flour. Remove from the bowl and put (covered) in the fridge to firm.

Roll on a floured surface, line a 24cm lose bottom flan tin and bake blind at 150C until golden. Remove baking beans and replace in the oven for a further 2 to 3 minutes.

Pour in the lemon cream to the top and bake at 120C for 40 minutes or until set (remember the tart will continue to cook when removed from the oven).

Scatter raspberries over the top of the tart and serve.