Cafe society: Frances Hollis

Frances Hollis. Picture / Carolyn Robertson

Coffee fiend Frances Hollis has been in the coffee business for more than 25 years. She set up the first Columbus store 10 years ago and has just opened the 10th shop to celebrate.

Any changes you've noticed in New Zealanders coffee habits since you started?

When I started, tea was king followed by instant coffee, then filtered brewed coffee. Espresso began to make an impact around 15 years ago but it was what I would call disguised coffee or flavoured milk. Today, we're true espresso drinkers and appreciate specialty coffees like we appreciate fine wines.

The secret to making the perfect latte?

It's down to the skills of the barista. The right meld of milk and espresso creates what I call velvetised milk. A soft, creamy texture with a double shot of espresso that provides a fullness feel in the mouth is a great latte. Frothed milk floating on top of espresso is not.

What's your favourite cafe - notwithstanding Columbus?

Mink in Parnell. They serve Gravity coffee and have fantastic paninis.

Any guidelines for when to drink coffee and what to drink it with?

Our taste buds are fresh first thing in the morning, which is why you should drink a medium roast light-bodied coffee such as a Guatemalan. After a dinner party, when guests' taste buds are very jaded, they should be served a full-bodied coffee such as a Sumatra Mandheling or Kenyan for real impact.

Your most memorable coffee experience?

A traditional coffee house in Vienna. It provided the catalyst for the eventual look and feel of the Columbus brand, which is a fusion of the leisurely and elegant ambience of the traditional European coffee house and excitement and drama of the American specialty coffee stores. Aside from that, the coffee was superb and served with delicious little sweet chocolate nibbles.

Single most useful coffee gadget?

Not exactly a gadget but my single most prized coffee possession is a Jura fully automatic coffee machine. It sits proudly on my kitchen bench serving up morning espressos at the touch of a button. Plus, I can froth the milk for my afternoon flat white.

Your favourite bar?

Anywhere that makes a great dry, dry, dry martini and has a good range of Scotch single malt whiskies. While I haven't had much luck with the whiskies, Soul does a terrific martini.

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