KEY POINTS:
Some things just aren't meant to be. Although you never can tell, because things always start out nicely enough.
My date for the evening is aesthetically pleasing. Same as the surroundings.
Eight.Two (you call it eight-point-two) is in one of those grand Birkenhead villas. The interior was gutted to make one large, minimal, white dining room softened with white leather chairs. The exteriors feature white concrete, glamorously glowing red lights, and sculptural succulents.
We take our seats and several waitresses attend to our desires for sparkly Antipodes water and pinot noir.
Anticipation builds as we salivate over the menu. Anticipation also builds because we're expecting food from the kitchen of legendary chef Michael Meredith, formerly from some of Auckland's best-reviewed restaurants, including Antoine's, Vinnies and the Grove. Well, that was what we had been led to believe by listings around town.
The menu looked good. Not too fancy, with a trillion fusion flavours crowded on one plate, but no rustic fantasy.
These dishes could make for well-balanced perfection.
It may have been our state of anticipation, but the first course was a little underwhelming.
The grilled goat's cheese arrived as a large chunk with pieces of toast and a nice, simple tomato and olive confit for company. The seared salmon gravlax, perfectly pink, sat happily on its blini with a sour cream dressing.
"Is it, um, a little too salty?" the date asked reluctantly, not wishing to ruin the celebratory mood. "This tastes just like the olives and mushed up tomatoes at home," I moped, a bad cook wishing for a fancier and more piquant confit.
Sadly, things didn't get any better between us. Or between us and the kitchen.
The fettucine, with a simple sauce of tomato, fresh basil and olives, was pleasant enough but nowhere near pasta nirvana. Although the caramelised onion, sauted spinach and potatoes with bearnaise sauce were sweet and rich, the desired medium steak arrived medium-rare.
We could have remedied this. The lovely waitress came over and asked if everything was all right, interrupting a debate about whether we should send back the steak for more cooking. "It's fine," we chorused falsely in unison. Ooh, uncomfortable.
Happily, the evening did end triumphantly for one of us. The one who chose the vanilla brulee for desert was left satisfied with the thick, crunchy caramelised topping and generous portion. But the lemon tart didn't leave a sour enough taste.
Later, I discover that Michael Meredith wasn't cooking because he has a broken arm, and that the new chef, Nigel Marriage - who has worked with Michelin-starred chef John Burton Race - doesn't start until next week.
So the fort was being held by the someone else altogether.
Sadly for a date - and a restaurant - with such potential, there was only one conclusion to be drawn. We came too soon.
Address: 82 Hinemoa St, Birkenhead
Phone: (09) 419 9082
On the web: www.eatout.co.nz
Open: Tuesday to Saturday for dinner, Saturday and Sunday for lunch
Cuisine: European with a touch of fusion
On the menu: Marinated lamb rump, eggplant, chickpea, mesclun, mint feta yoghurt dressing $24.50; dark chocolate brownie, vanilla-bean icecream $12
Vegetarian: Several suitable dishes
Wine: Nicely chosen range
