KEY POINTS:
With a large increase in vintage size for 2008 - up 80,000 tonnes or 39 per cent on last year - the obvious question is: who's going to be buying all this wine? Small wineries can expect to offload their production on the New Zealand market, but medium-to-large producers need to look beyond our shores.
Approximately 35 per cent is for local consumption, which leaves a whopping 65 per cent for export. According to New Zealand Wine-growers' global marketing director Chris Yorke, China is an exciting new market. But selling wine in foreign corners is not just a matter of putting bottles in restaurants and on shop shelves. That's no guarantee of actual sales - getting product on shelves is one thing, the moving of that product is another.
The marketing of wine internationally is a tough and complex business. There's an awful lot of wine out there from around the globe. France has a march on everybody because of tradition, history and reputation. The perception is if it's French it must be good, and that's what we ought to be seen to be drinking.
It makes it more difficult for New World producers like us. "We've targeted Shanghai as opposed to Beijing," says Yorke. "Beijing may have the population but Shanghai is where much of the wealth is and there are more top-end restaurants.
Also, there is a level of people who have money to spend on wine and want to be seen to be sophisticated." Research has shown that red wine is more popular because it is regarded as being healthier to drink, but also because in a glass, red looks like wine, whereas if you're drinking white, it could be regarded as water. And perception is important - one must be seen to be drinking "the right stuff".
Too bad all that lovely Marlborough sauvignon blanc is the wrong colour. Also, apparently, the label on the bottle matters. It needs to look sassy and, says Yorke, "lots of writing on the label probably means it's expensive".
As new international wine-drinkers emerge, they will become smarter and more educated about what they are buying, and then taste and quality will hopefully become as important as image. It's imperative, then, for New Zealand to cling tightly to its reputation for quality and class.
RECOMMENDED
2007 Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc
From a well-established Marlborough producer, this is a serious sauvignon. Herbaceous, with subtle tropical and citrus character.
Price: $25
2006 Church Road Reserve Syrah
This is the first syrah release from the Church Road winery. Supple, medium-to-full-bodied with dark berry fruit, violet and spice characters.
Price: $34
