Dream creams and super serums

A new generation of face creams and serums is being trumpeted forth. You see them in the magazines and on television advertisements, glossily photographed, scientifically described, heralding the fountain of youth.

"Unprecedented breakthrough," "cellular technology " ... this is the language of marketing, cloaked in science speak. It's also the lingua franca of the global skincare industry.

A paper published in the British Journal of Dermatology last year, summed up thus: "Consumers purchasing cosmetic skincare products - particularly those purporting anti-aging properties - are presented with a broad choice of available product and only limited data regarding their efficacy.

The situation is further complicated for consumers by the use of trademarked proprietary names for ingredients and the relative lack of published long-term studies to demonstrate product performance."

Cosmetics have to meet ingredient safety and labelling requirements, but as to effectiveness tests, the category faces nothing like the sort of regulations that apply to drugs. It's a case of buyer beware, or finding the proof in the pudding.

But don't despair, the British study quoted above also contained the much publicised finding that an over-the-counter anti-ageing product did deliver measurably reduced wrinkles over 12 months. This prompted a run in the UK on the tested product, Boots No. 7 Perfect & Protect Intense Beauty Serum.

Similar creams weren't part of the rigorous test, but the peer-reviewed study said the Boots result was indicative that cosmetic anti-ageing products could make a difference and should pave the way for large studies with statistical grunt. (The cosmetics industry routinely quotes from small commissioned studies of usually limited duration.)

Beyond the headlines, the study noted that results from a cosmetic product were still "markedly less than that which is achievable with a prescribed medicine". It was referring to prescription retinoids, or vitamin A derivatives, the effectiveness of which is well-documented, including in the partial restoration of collagen.

Retinoids are used in everything from acne treatment, to addressing the signs of photo-ageing, caused by external factors such as sun exposure.

Anti-oxidants and peptides are leading ingredients around which there is broad consensus of their value. With most of us buying our skincare over the counter, it pays to look for products containing these and hope we're getting enough of them to make a statistically significant difference.

Research continues into what are the most effective options from among the known anti-oxidants and peptides, how to synthesise these effectively, and in what combinations results are best delivered. It's here that the giant scientific advance of cracking the human genome has given real impetus to research.

With 20,000-plus human genes identified, research is exploring how genes encode the proteins which carry out repair functions in skin.

You can bet all those skincare scientists are beavering away looking to isolate the ultimate skincare repair genes.

L'Oreal Youth Code Day Care $34.99

"Following 10 years of genetic science research, L'Oreal Paris presents" ... a rather, nice fragranced gel-like cream for women aged 35-plus with a bunch of obscurely named ingredients. This new range with so-called Pro-Gen technology is said to have unlocked the skin's repair genes and to even and soften the skin's surface. It includes a concentrate and an eye cream.

The claim: "Ground-breaking technology to help tired skin recover faster, and re-establish its natural youthfulness."

Shiseido Future Solution LX Total Regenerating Cream $465

Top of the line product billed as "the future of infinite beauty" and said to contain "Skingenecell 1P" to counteract future aging and encourage skin vitality. With green tea and other naturally derived ingredients to revitalize the vibrancy lost to environmental aggressors.

The claim: "Lush textures and fragrances of Japanese flowers engage the mind in creating healthy skin conditions."

Nivea Visage Anti-Wrinkle Q10 Plus Day Care SPF15 $19.45

"The best is set to get even better," says Nivea of its update of the cream containing co-enzyme Q10 which it launched in 1998. Antioxidant co-Q10 is now used in a number of brands. This rather rich cream for those aged 30+ still has an SPF15 rating, but with enhanced UV filters to better deflect ageing UVA rays. Said to reduce fine lines and wrinkles and smooth skin. Range includes a night and an eye cream.

The claim: "Supports the skin's capacity to repair itself whilst replenishing the co-Q10 that time has taken away."

Lancome Renergie Life Volumetry Day Cream SPF15 $185

Three weeks to experience replumped cheeks, tightened and lifted skin and four weeks to a more youthful facial shape, says Lancome citing a trial of its new cream available in normal and dry formulations for those in their 40s. Rather less drastic (or noticeable) than a trip to the cosmetic surgeon, this cream does feel supportive and is said to harness what we know of how skin proteins interact to bolster their slackening performance over time.

The claim: "Contains an intense lifting action which plumps up tissue, like cosmetic surgery, but without the frozen look that injections give."

Clinique Youth Surge Night Age $118

Called an age decelerating night moisturiser, this Clinique cream contains a class of proteins called surtuins, said to extend cell life and Isoniacinamide for repair. In three different antioxidant-rich formulas including for very dry and oily skins.

The claim: "While no-one can reverse ageing, Youth Surge can certainly slow its appearance down."

Super serums

Serums deliver skincare ingredients in liquid form, often in concentrated doses. They may have moisturising properties, but aren't moisturisers, so are normally layered under day or night creams to brighten and rejuvenate. Here's a few of the latest.

Nimue Stemplex Serum $260

Plant stem cells extracted from a rare Swiss apple observed to brown very slowly are the basis of this serum, said to strengthen skin's own stem cells and so help tissue renewal. Trials of the serum, which has a nice, light, firming feel, were said to have given a 15 per cent reduction in crow's feet wrinkles after one month. (For salon stockists Ph 0800 144562.)

La Prairie Cellular Serum Platinum Rare $1128

With precious platinum said to recharge the skin's electrical balance making it better able to repel aggressors and to absorb substances to moisturise and protect skin. These include collagen-stimulating peptides and red algae.

Prevage Face Advanced Anti-Ageing Serum $280

The launch of Prevage nearly five years ago gave Elizabeth Arden's anti-ageing portfolio a boost as it contains the much vaunted antioxidant Idebenone. The new serum is said to be gentler on sensitive skin. It adds a fatty acid compound and a cocktail of plant-derived antioxidants. (Available from Monday.)

* Idebenone was licensed for use in Prevage by the makers of Priori, who use it also in their salon-only skincare ranges.

La Mer Regenerating Serum $550

Stem cells of a marine shore plant are fermented using the same "sono-chemistry" applied to the original anti-inflammatory La Mer "miracle broth". Said to smooth skin and help trigger natural production of youth proteins.

Clarins Multi-Active Skin Renew Serum $110

Combines anti-ageing and natural exfoliating actions in a gentle approach to treat tired, stressed skin. Lipidic molecules (ceramides) help prevent moisture loss and plant extracts break down surface dead skin cells.

Murad Active Radiance Serum $173.50

A vitamin C complex is central to this serum which claims to help build collagen and firm and brighten skin damaged by too much sun exposure. Alpha hydroxy acids promote skin turnover. (From Caci medispas or murad.co.nz)

Stockists: Brand counters unless otherwise stated above.