Dramatic drops

2008 Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc. Photo / Babiche Martens

Liberally lubricating James Bond films, imbibed big time in The Godfather and famously matched with a victim's liver and fava beans by Hannibal Lecter in Silence of the Lambs, wine has played a bit part in many a movie. However, it's been stepping out of its supporting role to become the star of a flood of wine movies released in recent years, the latest being Bottle Shock out last week.

Bottle Shock is the dramatisation of what became known as the "Judgment of Paris", a blind tasting set up in 1976 by Paris-based Brit Steven Spurrier. It sent shockwaves across the world of wine when the then unknown wines of the Napa Valley beat the cream of France's crop.

As watching people taste wine is about as exciting as watching a wine stain dry, the film's drama revolves around the interweaving stories of Spurrier - who, encouraged by a neighbouring American shopkeeper, sets the challenge to promote his floundering wine shop - with the endeavours of the colourful family and employees of the similarly struggling Chateau Montelena in California.

Although the real Spurrier was not amused by the film, which he alleged contained more fiction than fact, it's an entertaining spectacle in which Alan Rickman pulls off a fine if unflattering portrayal of Spurrier as an aloof wine snob.

Forced by events to look beyond the French wines he rated above all others, the fictional Spurrier acknowledges, "We have shattered the myth of the invincible French vine, and not just in California... You mark my words; we'll be drinking wines from South America, Australia, New Zealand, Africa, India, China."

You don't have to be a wine aficionado to enjoy Bottle Shock, as the wine waffle is kept to a minimum, unlike Mondovino, another major wine film from a few years back. This lengthy documentary's exploration of the homogenisation of wine, while making plenty of valid points concerning the corporatisation of wine and full of fascinating and sometimes humorous footage - including the influential critic Robert Parker's now famously flatulent pooch - goes into detail guaranteed to get all but the wine geek glazing over.

A more accessible cinematic excursion is offered by Sideways, the funny and moving tale of love and life crises in California's vineyards as a pair of 40-something friends go on a wine tasting road trip. One of the duo, Miles is a wine buff who scorns the popular grape variety merlot, while praising pinot noir.

Such is his disdain, at one point he exclaims, "I'm not drinking any f***ing merlot! If anyone orders merlot, I'm leaving!" Viewers in the US took Miles' sentiment seriously and following its release merlot sales fell while pinot's soared.

Attempting to address the "Sideways effect", as this became termed, is the new American documentary, Merlove, a paean to the much-maligned grape. Although not yet screened in New Zealand, its makers say they'll bring it here if interest proves sufficient. Although somewhat niche, I'd wager seats would be filled if it was shown in our own merlot country of Hawkes Bay.

Those thirsting after more wine movies should keep their eyes peeled for new flicks in the offing. No doubt minus his gassy pet this time, Robert Parker is the subject of one, based on Elin McCoy's biography, The Emperor of Wine.

Two Hollywood outfits have also purchased the rights to the story of The Jefferson Bottles, about the fight by billionaire oil magnate William Koch to prove the provenance of possibly fraudulent bottles he purchased that were purported to have been from Thomas Jefferson's collection. Wine has never been so dramatic.

Star sauvignon

Tinpot Hut Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $87
Tinpot Hut is the new venture of whiz-kid winemaking duo, Fiona Turner and Matt Thomson. Their sauvignon is elegant and intense, propelled by a fusion of tangy lime and mineral swathed in elegant blackcurrant leaf and nettle. (From Mairangi Bay Fine Wines, Point Wines, Wine Vault, Caro's, First Glass, Liquorland Tauranga.)

Grape debut

Forrest The Doctors Marlborough Arneis 2008 $25
Arneis is a new variety to the country, with this the first I'm aware of from Marlborough. It's an impressive inaugural example on a fresh citrusy spectrum with peach fruit and intriguing notes of sage and juniper berry.
(From www.forrest.co.nz.

Merlovely

Thornbury Hawkes Bay Merlot 2007 $19.99
The slating given to merlot in Sideways likely stemmed from the average quality of many examples. But, when it's good, merlot can be wonderfully rich and fleshy, like this impressive and well-priced one with its concentrated juicy tarry dark berry fruit and lick of tannins.
(From supermarkets including New World, Pak n Save, Food Town, selected liquor outlets.)