Instead of household chores compromising the longevity of your gel manicure, pop on some gloves and use the time to strengthen your nails instead, says nail expert Angeline Knapp. Photo / Getty Images
Wondering how to extend the life of your nails? Lucy Slight consults an expert.
For gel manicure enthusiasts, the benefits of a longer-lasting polish far outweigh the extra cost. While a basic gel manicure might start near $70 (compared with $40 for regular polish), you’ll enjoy flawless, chip-free nails for up to three weeks, versus only a few days with traditional lacquer.
Gel nail polish works through a process that involves applying a specially formulated gel to the nails and then curing it under an ultraviolet (UV) or LED light.
The gel polish is applied in thin layers, just like regular nail polish. Each layer typically includes a base coat, one or more colour coats, and a top coat. After each layer of gel polish is applied, the nails are placed under a UV or LED lamp for curing.
This process hardens the gel and makes it more durable. The UV or LED light triggers a chemical reaction in the gel polish, called polymerisation, which transforms the liquid gel into a solid, long-lasting layer.
Along with weeks of chip-free nails, the gel maintains a glossy finish throughout the wear period. Gel polish is removed by soaking the nails in acetone or using a special gel polish remover. The acetone breaks down the gel, allowing it to be gently scraped off without damaging the natural nails when done correctly.
However, despite the promised longevity, your nail technician will still tell you there will be some TLC required if you want to keep your nails looking salon perfect for longer. These include applying cuticle oil morning and night, avoiding picking at your nails, and wearing gloves when cooking, cleaning, gardening and even fake tanning.
“When you put your bare hands and nails in hot water and detergent, your gel polish may be more likely to lift or peel, especially if you wash dishes often,” says Angeline Knapp, director of Creative Nails NZ (the distributor of Shellac) and CND education ambassador.
“Hot water can be too hot for your hands, and you might accidentally scrub your nails while cleaning pots, so always wear rubber gloves when doing dishes.”
Gloves also help avoid exposure to chemicals in home cleaning products, which have active ingredients that can affect the integrity of your gel manicure.
“These products have different active ingredients and purposes,” explains Knapp. “If they come into contact with surfaces they aren’t designed for, like gel nails, they can cause deterioration.”
Because glove wearing is crucial, Knapp recommends using this time to apply a hand and nail treatment, which will absorb into the skin as your hands warm up inside the gloves. This is a great time to use a thick, rich formula such as Kiehl’s Ultimate Strength Hand Salve, $38.
“Wash your hands and apply a hand scrub, then rinse and dry,” she instructs. “Apply a cuticle oil such as CND Solar Oil around your cuticles and hand cream on both sides of the hands. Don’t rub the cream all the way in; leave some visible and put on your gloves.”
Whether you’re new to gel polish or it’s your go-to manicure method, Knapp stresses the health of your nails is important when it comes to the longevity of your manicure. If your nails are weak, most professional nail brands have a Builder in a Bottle (BIAB), which can be applied underneath your gel to add strength and thickness to natural nails.
This will make them less prone to breaking or chipping and because it’s a self-levelling formula, BIAB can also reduce the need for extensive filing of ridges, making it easier to achieve a smooth and even surface with the gel colour.