Peppersack in Tallinn, Estonia. Photo / Supplied
PEPPERSACK
Viru 2 / Vana turg 6, Tallinn, Estonia
We arrived ...
on foot, around 8:00pm, after a short orientation walk through the gorgeous old town from our nearby hotel. We'd travelled all day by coach from St Petersburg – a nine-hour journey, including two-and-a-half hours getting through the Russian/Estonian border (and that was speedy!) We'd seen amazing sights en route but, suffice to say, we were weary and highly eager for a good feed.
We came here because ...
it was part of the Maher Escorted Tours Russia/Baltic States itinerary – and it couldn't have been more perfect. (I'm a tour leader with Maher Tours; we were a group of 19 mature travellers).
It's located ...
ideally, in the Old Town of Tallinn, next to the Town Hall Square. The building dates way back to 1370 and has operated as Peppersack Restaurant since 2002. Long ago, spice merchants here were mockingly called "pepper sacks" and a successful one called Hans adopted this term as his surname, but with one "p", i.e. Hans Pepersack. He took over ownership of the building in 1520 and, today, the symbol of the restaurant is a pepper sack hanging outside. What a wonderfully unique and enduring heritage!
We were seated ...
inside where it's cosy and inviting, with candlelight providing extra ambience, and our large group was easily accommodated. Outside, there are tables on the square during the summer season where you can people-watch to your heart's content and it doesn't get dark till late. Inside or out, small or large group, winter or summer, it's a fabulous place to dine.
Our first impression was ...
this is an historic and atmospheric eatery with an authentic medieval vibe in the centre of a wonderful city; it's like stepping back in time, yet with a modern edge. We were smitten from the get-go and knew we were in for a good time.
We started with ...
green pea puree soup with smoked bacon. Hearty and tasty.
Main course ...
duck confit with potato puree, roasted carrots and red wine sauce. It was outstandingly good.
Dessert was ...
carrot and cinnamon cake with cream cheese frosting. Delicious. Being a group, we had a set 3-course menu and I couldn't fault it. A la carte is also available for casual diners.
Drinks ...
the local Estonian beer is Saku and it's very good. Be sure to try a Vana Tallin nightcap . It's a rum-based liqueur developed in the 1960s; sweet and flavoured with various spices, it's a local tipple that's perfect as an after-dinner treat. I'm not much of a rum fan so approached with caution – but the shot slipped down very nicely thanks to components of citrus, cinnamon and vanilla. We all agreed it was unique, and a winner!
The highlight of the night was ...
when two guys appeared at about 8:30pm and performed a lively mock fight scene that was startling, feisty and hilarious and performed up and down the staircase. It began with fists and then out came the swords which were wielded dangerously close to some of my group – although in complete safety of course. This bizarre and highly entertaining slapstick style routine, which is performed nightly, took us by surprise. It was delightful and gave us a second wind.
Come here if ...
you're keen on history and immersing yourself in yesteryear. Add a dose of comedy and lightheartedness alongside the great food, and you won't be disappointed.
The bill ...
We had a prepaid set menu for a group: three courses approx. NZ$54. A la carte main dishes vary between NZ$18 and NZ$40. Entrees and desserts from around NZ$12.
Final thoughts: Excellent food, friendly youthful exuberant service and a huge dose of laughter made the evening highly memorable and enlivening. Reasonable prices for food and drink and a fabulous experience, start to finish. I still remember every moment and every mouthful. There's also a café for breakfast (from NZ$7). Check out the website here.
The Nightglow will take place on March 22 in Hamilton.