Destination dining: Bistro Molines, Hunter Valley

In summer, wisteria droop over the dining area, framing the view of tree-pocked hills and a crevice of grape vines that run down to a pond. Photo / Instagram

We arrived . . . for a long lunch in the early afternoon. After driving up the Pacific Coast Highway from Sydney we were looking forward to settling in to this vineyard restaurant for the rest of our day.

We chose here because . . . we were staying in the Little Orchard Cottage that is part of the estate.

Our first impression was . . . that we had stumbled upon a little slice of France in rural Australia.

Through wooden doors we entered into a lively cobbled courtyard. A tree in the centre reached out over the space, its branches dappling the warm autumn light. Waitstaff moved among white-clothed tables, some long and lined with big families, others small and intimate.

Gnarled wisteria branches wound up white posts - in summer their soft purple blooms droop overhead, framing the view of tree-pocked hills and a crevice of grape vines that run down to a pond.

We started with . . . A bottle of local semillon. Like a sauvignon without the grassy notes, it was crisp, light and a perfect accompaniment to a rainbow-bright salad of pomegranate, heirloom tomatoes, figs, melon and Sicilian olives, all layered around a ball of knotted burrata.

The menu . . . was colourful, fresh and French. Entrees included seasonal vegetable dishes, a charcuterie of duck liver pate, rabbit rillette and terrine, and crumbed lamb brains with carrot remoulade. Meanwhile, the main menu ranged from market fish with lemon beurre noisette to wild meats - rabbit and venison - and French classics such as Cote de Boeuf and a filet mignon, which my partner declared the best he's ever eaten.

The venison noisette with carrot puree, heirloom beetroots and blackcurrant sauce. Photo / Supplied

The highlight was . . . finding that often elusive trifecta of beautiful food, impeccable service and an exceptional setting. We sat at our little table on the edge of the courtyard until the sun set, wishing we had room for more and enjoying the genuine chat with the wait staff and later the owners of the restaurant and vineyard. We'd read that Robert Molines is regarded as "The Godfather" of the Hunter Valley, having established fine dining in the region and training many of the chefs who have gone on to open their own local restaurants. In reality he was a humble character, generous with his time and anecdotes.

The food at Bistro Molines is colourful, fresh and French. Photo / MJK Creative

Dessert . . . was a cheese platter and wine shared with Robert and his wife, Sally.

The bill . . . came to AU$167, excluding wine which was generously shared by our hosts.

- Rebecca Blithe