Descarga Cubana, Karangahape Rd

I hadn't bothered to book at Descarga Cubana, because booking is a bourgeoisie concept. Also, it was early on a Wednesday night and it was freezing cold. And I'd forgotten. When we arrived they said they had a private function on, but we could have what they were having, if we cared to.

The chef was then dragged out of the kitchen and told he would be shot as a traitor to the revolution if he didn't whip us up some Papas Rellenas, immediately. At least that's what I hoped he'd been told, Unfortunately, for the sake of dramatic effect, he was more than happy to feed some more of the masses.

I don't know much about Cuban food other than it is reputed to be vile in Cuba and quite nice when not cooked in Cuba. So, not having been to Cuba, but having read a little about the place, I wasn't too surprised to see that in the loo there was nothing to dry your hands on.

"Well, that's probably authentic enough," I said to the bloke, "in Cuba you wouldn't have luxuries like hand towels." In Cuba, he said with the absolute authority of one who has also never been there, "you dry your hands on a goat."

This seemed reasonable once he explained that, possibly, goats are easier to come by in Cuba than hand towels. At Descarga Cubana, or indeed anywhere, I wouldn't advise having more than one Mojito. We had one, and it was very good, but it led to talk of goats.

The Mojito was a chilly drink for such a chilly night and the room was a bit nippy too. I think it is really a bar, and I'm sure it gets pretty lively, and thus warmer, late at night. There is an odd little bar down the back of the main dining area which is a valiant mix of stainless steel and that straw roof thatching like you get at beachside bars on tropical islands.

I'm not sure that Papas Rellenas would be on offer at many beachside bars, but it is quite possible you might be able to order Tostones, which is green plantains, or Platano a la Tentacion, which is bananas with ham and cheese, or Frituras de Malanga which is spicy fried taro.

The Rellenas are fried potato balls with cheese filling. Actually, on the menu, they opt for the method of spelling potato with an e, but never mind. They were jolly good, although you'd end up looking like a fried potato ball if you ate too many.

We could have Albondigas, spicy meatballs, or Pollo Caribeno, coconut chicken. He had the meatballs and they were quite wonderful, spicy, as advertised, in a rich velvety tomato sauce. My chicken was good too: a little bowl of coconut chicken stew which was tasty and filling. This all came with rice. It was plain, solid food, just right for a cold night.

Descarga Cubana had emailed a menu and I was very keen to try the Natilla, which is, apparently, a "chocolate mouse-type dessert."

When I asked for the mouse-type dessert the charming maitre d' said "do you think you're in Cuba?" Then he said: "What's with all the questions? Are you sussing us out? Are you from the Herald?" This sort of interrogation seemed very authentic. I tried to say I was from the Cuban Herald but too late: sprung.

Anyway, we had a Flan Cubano and some, I think, fried choux pastry things in sugar syrup. Whatever they were, they were terrific. And the Cuban tart was a beautifully tender custard concoction which had met with a rum bottle somewhere along the way.

The bill was $72, which they added up again because "that seems too much." We'd never heard anyone at a restaurant say that before. Then the maitre d' said: Are you going to give us a good review? And if I don't? "I'll set that mouse on you."

It was quite a mad night, what with the goats and mice, but a fun one.

Address: 282 Karangahape Rd
Phone: (09) 300 7427
Open: Lunch Mon-Sat 10am to 2pm, Dinner Tues- Sat 6pm to late
From the menu: Empanaditas, small patties filled with vegetables, meat or fish, $5; Calamares en su Tinta, squid in red wine, $17; Canoa India, ice cream, banana, coconut, syrup, $6
Vegetarian: Lots of lovely veges, mostly deep-fried, which is the way vegos really like them Wine list: Well, they have wine. $6 a glass, $26 a bottle. Have a mojito
Bottom line: A bit scruffy - it is on K Rd - but friendly service and cheap, satisfying food