Delicious, Grey Lynn

By JENNIFER YEE for canvas

A crowded restaurant on a cold Monday night is every restaurateur's dream. We'd had a good night at Delicious two months before so were keen to return. Unfortunately, this time it was pretty average.

What we had: Delicious does good ravioli and we were pleased with the shared starter of silverbeet, watercress, and ricotta ravioli with walnut sauce. Our mate Henry chose the main-size roast pumpkin, mascarpone and parmesan version. Both had good amounts of filling and were simply presented. The pasta was light. But it was the pumpkin ravioli with crisp sage leaves which won hands down for wow flavour.

David's penne pasta with mussels and potato was soupy, although not a soup as such. By far the most intensely flavoured dish of the three, it was let down by its bitsy nature and chewy penne. I tossed up between the pappardelle with cavalo nero, lentils and pancetta and the tagliatelle with marjoram, braised leeks and wild mushrooms. I should have opted for the pappardelle but, not being fond of eating a plate of lentils, got stuck with the overcooked tagliatelle. This had gone past al dente in texture, looked grey and brown on the plate and was a homogeneous pile of pasta in which none of the ingredients were allowed to sing.

How I would cook it: saute the wild mushrooms in a little garlic and butter or olive oil, which always brings out the flavour of fungi. Set them aside. In the same pan wilt the leeks until they're softened but still emerald green and creamy in colour, then toss the lot together with the hot, drained pasta.

Only one vegetable side is offered here - the rocket, balsamic and parmesan salad.

We've always liked that you can see the dessert selection from the chilled cabinet before you buy. D was tempted by the cassata cake with a pecan and citrus peel filling sandwiched between layers of sponge, topped with white icing and decorated with a wedge of candied peel. H fancied the tiramisu, but decided it lacked the kick of marsala and was a little like a soggy sponge, lacking the unctuous decadence that a good tiramisu made with savioradi biscuits should be. The highlight of this was the heavy hit of cocoa on top. My pear and masala tart was finally delicious. We like a good tart and this was well balanced in terms of fruit, custard and crisp tart base.

Service: Maybe it's because this place relies on turning over the tables two to three times a night that we felt a bit rushed.

I don't know if the staff are aware not to clear dishes until the last person has finished eating. Our waitress tried to clear both my main course and my pudding when I was half-way through them. Please note that when my cutlery are still in action, don't clear, but do watch until I have placed my knife/fork/spoon together to indicate I have put my meal to bed. Also, please provide plain water without our asking for it. We weren't even given the option of buying bottled water.

We stuck with the Chianti Classico, which went well with all our pasta dishes. A small but chosen selection of New Zealand and Italian red and white wines are available by the glass only.

If we care enough to come back to a restaurant, we expect a consistent experience.

Our Meal: $137.80 for 3 (4 glasses of wine); entree $7-$8.50; mains $14-$18.50; desserts $6-$7

Our Wines By The Glass: by the glass only, $7.50-$10

Overall: Fresh pasta dishes and a no-frills menu that appeals to a wide audience for midweek dining.




* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.