KEY POINTS:
It's often said that great wine is made in the vineyard. Despite this, it's generally the winemaker who's in the spotlight collecting wine awards and acting as the public face of many wine brands, while the viticulturist - who by this statement would appear to be perhaps more
important than the winemaker - remains a low-key figure, quietly carrying out their work behind the scenes.
Tending the grapes used to be the role of the winemaker-grower. However, in many wineries today, especially larger operations, a specialised viticulturist is employed to oversee work in the vineyard. Even small enterprises now often employ a viticultural consultant to advise them on their grape growing, given the acknowledgement that it's an area that requires considerable expertise.
The viticulturist's job can span the setting up of a vineyard to its day-to-day management, controlling crucial elements such as the vine's crop load, health, nutrition and irrigation, culminating in the harvest, where they're aim is to deliver sound, ripe grapes of the quality desired to the winemaker. If the grapes are good, then this makes the winemaker's work far easier.
Viticultural consultant, Bart Arnst describes winegrowing as a team game, with the vineyard staff as the forwards, who produce the quality to showcase the skills of the backs, the winemakers. "Often you will hear the backs talk of the quality they receive yet the scoreboard acknowledges only the rewards (or awards), although to be fair it's sections of the media or the marketing gurus who highlight the winemaker, not often the winemakers themselves."
"Winemakers are quick to acknowledge the importance of the viticulturist's role and this is recognised within the industry," notes Tony Hoksbergen, head viticulturist at Pernod Ricard NZ, who's been responsible for planting over 2000 hectares of vines over his career. "However, externally wine consumers are less aware of the part they play in the wines they're drinking."
Little is being done to promote this. For example, in most wine competitions awards for individual achievement go to winemakers. However, there are exceptions, such as New Zealand's Bragato Awards, which is one of the rare events that rewards viticultural excellence and highlights the influence of grape growers and their vineyards.
Some viticulturists are also seizing the opportunity to take their passion to the people, such as Timbo Morrison-Deaker. As wine manager for the Freefall, Rock Ferry & van Asch labels he relishes the fact that he can get among those who are drinking his wines as well as his vines.
For Morrison-Deaker it's the fusion of science and nature at the heart of viticulture that drew him to the work. "I think that this is one of the great allures for most viticulturists. There are very few things, whether it be a vocation or hobby, that allow you to use these two different skills to achieve a tangible outcome," he says.
Science now plays an important part in viticulture, which can employ hi-tech procedures such as satellite imaging, global positioning and state of the art machinery in the running of the vineyard. Nevertheless many growers are returning to older techniques employed hundreds of years ago through embracing more environmentally sustainable or organic practices.
These two approaches can work hand in hand, thinks Hoksbergen. "Science allows you to better understand what delivers the outcomes you're looking for, and when it comes to organics, where disease management is important, science has allowed us to understand the risks and remedies far better than we did a decade ago."
Great wine was never made from bad grapes, so next time you're enjoying a good drop, spare a thought for the person who grew them.
Well grown
Top partner
Sileni Cellar Selection Hawkes Bay Cabernet Rose 2008 $19.95
A gutsy food-friendly dry rose. Blackcurrant and raspberry fruit is to the fore over savoury herb and olive notes.
(From La Barrique, Point Wines, Kohi Corner Wines & Spirits, Bucklands Beach Wines & Spirits, selected Liquorlands, New World, Countdown, Foodtown.)
Zippy gris
Redoubt Hill Vineyard Nelson Pinot Gris 2008 $24.50
A fragrant and fresh Pinot Gris from this new Nelson winery. This delivers plenty of pure pear fruit over a line of mineral and sweet spice, with its whisper of sweetness balanced by a zip of citrus.
(From Tauranga's Naked Grape, Hillsdene Wines, Uncorked Wine Shop, www.redoubthill.co.nz)
With passion
Moncellier Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $24.95
This soft ripe Sauvignon is the first release from the partnership between Sauvignon pioneer Bill Spence and his Matua Valley mate, Greg Rowdon. It's an impressive debut with rich and mouth-filling melon and passion fruit layered with herb.
(From Wine & More, Huapai's Wine Circle, Mangawhai's Cellar Select, www.moncellierwines.co.nz)
