Cotton comforts return to the catwalk

James&august directors Nikki Blackley and Sally Ridge. Picture / NZPA

The growth of women's underwear range james&august in one year is an example of how effective the New Zealand fashion week has become for budding designers.

James&august directors Nikki Blackley and Sally Ridge introduced their collection of colourful, comfortable, cotton underwear at last year's fashion show in October.

And as they finish preparations to show their third and a selection of their fourth range at next week's fashion show, they said they were more relaxed and ready this year.

"Last year we were running around like headless chickens," Ms Ridge said. "We just had stuff sampled up for fashion week, it was really early on, we had no idea, but we do now.

"Profile-wise [fashion week] really helped, and we want to keep our toes in there."

Starting from scratch almost a year ago, the bright, distinctive underwear and leisurewear range can now be found in Farmers, Rebel Sport, Route 66, and Understatements, as well as Kirkaldies, Ballantynes, Arthur Barnett and H&J Smith.

Ms Blackley said the pair had big dreams for immediate international expansion of the brand when they began last year, but now say they needed the year at home to build up the company slowly and solidly.

"Last year we had these big plans to get our gear into Australia and Japan, but in hindsight if we had received an order there's no way we would have been ready," she said. "After some advice from mentors we pulled right back and have remained firmly embedded here in the New Zealand market ."

She said they were only now starting to follow up Australian contacts and planned to be in stores across the Tasman by next year.

"We've got the capacity to do it, it's the infrastructure and the accounting that's the bigger hurdle."

Ms Ridge said they could not afford to make any mistakes over there.

"If there are any hiccups along the way it wouldn't be good - we have to get everything 100 percent before we cross that bridge."

And beyond Australia are the bright lights of Japan.

"We'd love to start looking at Japan - they love their colour and they're so cutesy - they'd really suit the range ," Ms Ridge said.

The new james&august range will be in shops at the end of October and the collection is bright, spotted, striped and fun.

And there is not a scrap of lace to be found on this underwear.

Ms Blackley said the women she knew who were "lacy" tended to still wear cotton underwear during the day and save the lace for something special.

Ms Ridge said she just never wore lacy stuff, "I just don't find it comfortable - james&august is like wearing your favourite pair of jeans."

- NZPA