Cool, calm and collected for winter

The New Zealand Fashion Festival. Photo / Steven McNicholl

There's nothing more exciting than seeing a fashion collection coming down the runway. The music, the lights, the long-legged models ... But more importantly, it's an opportunity to see a designer's vision come together in one magical moment, to gain a full understanding of the creative process and months of hard work.

This year, for the inaugural 2010 New Zealand Fashion Festival, 16 different labels put on a show like no other. In front of a crowd of over 1000 people, down a runway 50 metres long, to the sounds created by George FM DJs Nick D and Clarke Gayford along with Shannon Ryan of C4, they showed their hottest looks of the season. And the great thing is, it's all in store now - so you don't have to wait six months to buy what you love.

For inspiration for his collection, "A Bigger Splash", designer Adrian Hailwood looked to the 1974 Jack Hazan film on the artist David Hockney and his painting of the same name, based on Hockney's works in California, specifically swimming pool scenes of Hollywood in the 70s.

The inspiration for Andrea Moore's collection fell into place when she visited an exhibition called En Plein Air (in open air), featuring artists immersed in the elements in order to capture the true light and energy of the scenes they were painting.

"Every style can be a stand-alone piece or be part of a multitude of combinations totally distinctive to its wearer," she says.

Annah Stretton depicts the breakaway from the bleak post-war conditions of the late 40s, to a time when "promiscuity prevailed". Called "Envy" Stretton explains her collection "contains dramatic pieces to herald the gutsy performances for which Freda Stark was famous. We've created beautiful garments with provocative undertones, a hint of luxury and wearable, deeply cut garments to showcase all of a woman's assets. Evocative sexuality rules."

At menswear store Barkers, creative director Wade Hawkins has looked to the cool climates of northern Europe for inspiration, with a tailored silhouette, subtle detailing and layering garments and accessories. The palette is a reflection of the urban landscape, with cool, monochromatic tones offset by warm brights of purple and powder blue. Coats are key, whether three-quarter length, military, biker-style or a tailored dress jacket.

Cybele Wiren tells us she found her inspiration for her winter collection, entitled "Virtue", in the juxtaposition of "the regimentation and formality of the Victorian era with the pure sculptural qualities of flowers and insects".

The American origin brand Ed Hardy showcased four ranges. First, the signature vintage tattoo-inspired eponymous range. Next the Christian Audigier, aimed at "the more discerning, yet confidently outrageous customer". There was also Ca Lux, the high-end exclusive range and new brand Paco Chicano, inspired by images of flowers, amorous and secular metaphors.

Huffer teamed with with fashion designer Kristine Crabb to present "Fly", a collection they describe as "hot, fresh and beautifully feminine with a range of modern, sexy classics".

Juliette Hogan's collection is called So Pretty It Hurts. Her garments, she explains, "blur the line between classic femininity and sexy, contemporary fashion". Look out for shirts tucked in and buttoned to the top, pleats sharply pressed for an air of bookish beauty. There are pleated chiffon frocks, muted tones and ladylike floral prints, along with dramatic capes.

Kate Sylvester's winter range, "Diamond Dogs" comes, she says, "from a fascination with extremes and the mash-up of the clashing worlds of men's tailoring, lingerie, uniforms and couture.

"An oversized tweed blazer is slung over one shoulder, to reveal a contrasting blush-pink gown. Delicate lace lingerie is paired with khaki, military-inspired suiting, and a powder blue blouse tucks into striped Y-fronts. In a whole new approach to menswear, a nude camisole replaces the dinner shirt under a classic tuxedo."

Moochi offers a collection they say is fresh and modern, "that seeks the perfect blend of feminine and masculine with shapes that may move of their own free will or fit like a glove".

The Moochi winter palette is soft and muted, with shades of olive and blue to lift the mood. Red makes a strong cameo appearance and black, as always, takes centre stage.

Fabrication includes leather and denim which contrast with soft, shaded chiffons and lace cut-outs, along with boyish tees and beaded embellishments.

Paula Ryan's tongue-in-cheek use of "Queen of Tarts" as her theme celebrates the humour, the confidence and the strength of women today in society. "Styling as always, focuses on core essentials, classics with a twist and sculptured, relaxed tailoring," she says.

Stolen Girlfriends Club's collection, "Welcome to Nowhere", celebrates nomads, gypsies and vagabonds from around the globe. Drawing inspiration from a variety of cultures and countries, this collection is a mish-mash of ideas. Biker references are rife in this collection alongside hand-crocheted Yeti knits, and detailing of gold buttons, metallic zips and studs paired with ripped velvet jeans and tatty lace ruffles evoking gypsies.

The Carpenter's Daughter took inspiration this season from New Zealand's first fashion model in the 1930s named Esther James. James' style and classic Kiwi "can do" attitude made her a household name in 1931 when she walked the length of the country championing New Zealand-made goods.

"The 1930's aesthetic has influenced this range with the use of bias-cutting and drape in sheer fabrics, alongside crushed velvets for evening," explains creative director and founder Caroline Marr. "Work and casual looks feature the use of semi-tailored woollen shapes in mottled check and tweed tones. Key pieces are also inspired by this era, using capes, dress coats, wide-leg trousers and aprons in a contemporary New Zealand way. The overall look is modernised with the use of stripes, sweat-shirting, sequins and layering. Key colours of terracotta, charcoal grey, khaki, violet and mustard are drawn from the rolling hills and valleys that surrounded Esther James as she walked the length of New Zealand."

Trelise Cooper describes her "The Modern Dandy/The Empowered Woman", collection as "a collision of sexual androgyny and demure suggestion with some serious 80s tweaking".

Helen Cherry strikes a balance between sexy androgyny and elegant feminine style. Beautiful, luxurious fabrics and expert tailoring combine to create an effortlessly modern and intrinsically cool collection. Meanwhile at Workshop Denim, the focus is on "real life, substance and authenticity". The brand has built a solid reputation based on hardwearing, classic denim styling with a strong, directional edge.

"Glamour in Moscow" is the inspiration for Yvonne Bennetti's winter collection. Look for lots of luxurious pure cashmere and silk, Mongolian lamb fur vests with leather and stand out faux fux snow leopard coats.

Wrapping up the show, Zambesi's "Enigma" collection referenced both the traditional - trenchcoats and streamlined suits - and the future.

View images from last night's NZ Fashion Festival 2010 Runway Show here.